Tai O Fishing Village

Tai O is the Hong Kong of a century ago, still lived in. On the western tip of Lantau Island, at the end of a winding road, it is a fishing village built partly on stilts over tidal creeks, where generations of Tanka families, the boat people of the South China coast, built their homes, known as pang uk, on wooden piles above the water and connected them with boardwalks and bridges. Many of the stilt houses remain, some patched with corrugated metal, some brightly painted, with boats tied up below and washing hanging from the rails, and walking the lanes among them is the main attraction. The village is famous for its dried seafood and its pungent shrimp paste, and the main streets are lined with shops selling dried fish, squid, scallops and salted egg yolks, with seafood laid out to dry on bamboo trays in the sun. Snack stalls sell chargrilled egg puffs and other street snacks, and simple restaurants and cafes serve fresh seafood and big bowls of noodles, some with terraces over the water. Small boats wait by the main bridge to take visitors on short trips out along the stilt houses and into the open water beyond, where Chinese white dolphins, often pink in colour, live in the waters off western Lantau; sightings are not guaranteed, as numbers have declined, but the ride along the stilt houses is worth it regardless. The village also has small temples, including one dedicated to Kwan Tai, the god of war and righteousness, and the former police station, a colonial building on a headland at the mouth of the creek, has been restored as a small heritage hotel with a cafe. Tai O is free to explore, and coastal trails lead out of the village for those who want a longer walk. It is easily combined with the Big Buddha and the Ngong Ping 360 cable car on the same day.

Getting there: from Ngong Ping, the plateau with the Big Buddha and Po Lin Monastery, a bus runs down to Tai O in about twenty minutes. From Tung Chung MTR station, buses run directly to Tai O in about forty-five minutes along the island's south coast. The classic day is to take the Ngong Ping 360 cable car up from Tung Chung in the morning, see the Big Buddha and the monastery, take the bus down to Tai O for a late lunch and an afternoon wander, then return by bus to Tung Chung. Alternatively, ferries from Tuen Mun call at Tai O on some days, but the bus is more practical for most visitors.

When to go: weekdays are quieter; weekends and public holidays bring many visitors from the city and long queues for buses. Late afternoon has the best light on the stilt houses and the waterfront, and sunset over the Pearl River estuary can be spectacular. Tides change the look of the village dramatically, from boats floating beside the houses to mudflats below them.

Etiquette and practical tips: the stilt houses are private homes, so do not walk onto private boardwalks or photograph residents without asking. Bring cash for the snack stalls and boat trips. The shrimp paste and dried seafood make memorable souvenirs, but check your home country's import rules. If you go on a dolphin boat trip, choose an operator that keeps a respectful distance. Avoid days with typhoon signals, when buses and boats may be suspended.