Wan Chai

Hotel Indigo Hong Kong Island

★★★★★

Hotel Indigo Hong Kong Island is the most fun mid-range hotel on the island and a great base for exploring Wan Chai, one of the city's most characterful neighborhoods. It stands on Queen's Road East, in the older part of Wan Chai where traditional shops, temples and street markets sit among new towers, and it is impossible to miss: the building is wrapped in a scale-like facade of glass and metal fins designed to evoke a golden dragon, which glints in the sun and glows at night. The design inside continues the local theme, with artwork and details inspired by Wan Chai's history, from its markets to its tram line and old tenement buildings. There are 138 rooms and suites, contemporary and well designed, with large windows, comfortable beds and good bathrooms; they are not huge, as is normal in Hong Kong, but they are cleverly laid out. The star feature is on the roof: a glass-bottomed infinity pool that juts out over the edge of the building, so swimmers can look straight down to the street far below, with views across Wan Chai's towers to the hills. Next to it, the Skybar has an outdoor terrace and serves free-flow wine in the afternoons and evenings, and the restaurant Indicolite serves all-day dining. The hotel has a fitness centre, and the staff are friendly and helpful. It is a five-minute walk to Wan Chai MTR, and the trams run along nearby Johnston Road, so the whole island is easily reached. Prices are reasonable for the quality, and the pool alone makes it memorable.

Wan Chai is a great neighborhood to stay in. The streets around the hotel are full of local life: the Wan Chai street markets on Tai Yuen Street and Cross Street, with their stalls of toys, clothes and fresh produce; the Pak Tai Temple and the Hung Shing Temple; the Blue House, a restored tenement building with a heritage centre; and dozens of local restaurants, cha chaan teng cafes and noodle shops. Further north, the Convention and Exhibition Centre and the Wan Chai ferry pier give access to the harbour and the Star Ferry to Tsim Sha Tsui. Central and Causeway Bay are a few stops away by MTR or the famous old trams, nicknamed ding dings, which are a cheap and charming way to explore the island.

Choosing a room: the standard rooms are comfortable for couples; higher floors have better views and less street noise. Suites offer more space for longer stays or families. Ask for a room facing the hills or the harbour direction. The rooftop pool can be busy at weekends, so try it in the morning or the evening, and do not miss sunset at the Skybar.

Who it suits: couples, solo travelers and first-time visitors who want a stylish, good-value hotel in a real neighborhood rather than a business district. The trade-offs: the rooms are compact, the area is busy and some rooms hear the traffic on Queen's Road East, and it is a walk or a short MTR ride to the main sights. But for the price, the location, the design and that pool, it is one of the best mid-range choices in Hong Kong.