Central

Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong

★★★★★

Mandarin Oriental is the hotel that defined Hong Kong luxury for generations, and it remains the address of choice in Central. Since it opened in 1963 it has been the meeting place of the colony's taipans, diplomats and celebrities; it is now the flagship of the Mandarin Oriental group, with the fan logo known around the world. It sits on Connaught Road Central, across from Statue Square and the old waterfront, with views over Victoria Harbour from the upper floors, and the Star Ferry, the Central ferry piers and the MTR are all a short walk. A major renovation in the mid-2000s modernized the rooms while keeping the hotel's classic feel, and they now range from comfortable Deluxe rooms to grand suites, many with harbour views and balconies. The dining is one of the best collections in the city. Man Wah, on the top floor, serves refined Cantonese cuisine and dim sum in a lacquered dining room with harbour views. The Captain's Bar, with its tankards and nautical decor, is a beloved institution for drinks and live music. Clipper Lounge for its buffets and afternoon tea, the Mandarin Grill + Bar for modern European cooking, the rooftop brasserie Terrace Boulud, The Krug Room, The Chinnery for British comfort food, Cafe Causette for all-day dining and The Aubrey for a Japanese izakaya bar experience complete the line-up. The Mandarin Oriental Cake Shop, open since the 1970s, sells cakes, chocolates and its famous rose petal jam. The hotel has a spa, a pool and a fitness centre, plus the Mandarin Barber and Salon, old-school institutions in their own right.

Location is the hotel's biggest advantage. Central is the heart of Hong Kong Island: the banks and towers, the luxury shopping of the Landmark and IFC, the bars of Lan Kwai Fong and Soho, the galleries of Hollywood Road and Tai Kwun, and the Peak Tram terminus are all a short walk. The Star Ferry pier is about ten minutes on foot, and the outlying island ferries for Cheung Chau and Lamma leave from the piers next door. Central and Hong Kong MTR stations give quick access to the rest of the city and the Airport Express. For first-time visitors who want to be at the center of everything on the island, it is hard to beat.

Choosing a room: harbour-view rooms on the higher floors are the most desirable, with views across Victoria Harbour to Kowloon; city-view rooms face the towers of Central and are cheaper. Mandarin Club rooms add lounge access, and the suites are among the grandest in the city. Book a table at Man Wah for a special dinner and drop into the Captain's Bar for a drink, even if you are not staying. The group also has a sister hotel nearby, Mandarin Oriental The Landmark, which is more contemporary in style.

Who it suits: first-time visitors, business travelers, food lovers and anyone who wants classic Hong Kong glamour with modern comfort. The trade-offs: prices are high, and the rooms are smaller than at newer luxury hotels like the Rosewood or Upper House. Some views from lower floors are blocked by newer buildings on the reclaimed waterfront. But for service, history and the best location on Hong Kong Island, the Mandarin Oriental remains a superb choice.