Wan Chai

The Fleming Hong Kong

★★★★★

The Fleming is one of Hong Kong's most characterful small hotels, and one of the best mid-range choices on the island. It stands on Fleming Road in Wan Chai, between the old neighbourhood of markets and street food to the south and the harbourfront and the Convention and Exhibition Centre to the north, and its design is a love letter to the Star Ferry. The interiors borrow the ferries' colours and details, with green and white striped surfaces, porthole-style mirrors, brushed brass lamps, nautical fittings and a retro, art moderne feel, so the hotel has a strong sense of place without being kitsch. There are 66 rooms, compact as Hong Kong rooms tend to be but cleverly designed, with good beds, rain showers, quality toiletries and practical storage. The ground-floor restaurant, Osteria Marzia, serves southern Italian cooking inspired by Puglia, Amalfi and Sicily, with a focus on seafood, and is popular with locals as well as guests. The hotel is small enough that staff get to know you, and the overall feel is of a stylish neighbourhood base rather than a corporate tower. Wan Chai is a convenient place to stay: the MTR Island Line stations at Wan Chai and Admiralty are within walking distance, the trams run along Hennessy Road, the Wan Chai Star Ferry pier crosses to Tsim Sha Tsui, and Causeway Bay's shopping and Central's offices are a short ride away. The surrounding streets have everything from dai pai dong food stalls and wet markets to the Star Street precinct of cafes and design shops, and the hotel is also close to the Hong Kong Arts Centre and the Academy for Performing Arts. For couples and independent travellers who value design and character over facilities, it is an easy recommendation.

Room tips: rooms are small, so travellers with large luggage or who plan to spend a lot of time in the room may want to book a larger category. Higher floors are quieter. There is no pool or spa, so this is a hotel for travellers who spend their days out in the city. Breakfast at Osteria Marzia is a pleasant start to the day, and the restaurant is worth booking for dinner at least once even if you are not staying.

Location: the hotel is a few minutes' walk from the Wan Chai harbourfront promenade, the Convention and Exhibition Centre and the Wan Chai ferry pier, making it particularly convenient for trade fair visitors. Wan Chai MTR station is close, and the Admiralty interchange is a short walk or one stop away. Wan Chai's markets and street food are on the doorstep, and Causeway Bay and Central are each a few minutes by MTR or tram.

Who it suits: couples, solo travellers and design lovers who want a hotel with personality in a central location at a mid-range price. The trade-offs: compact rooms and limited facilities compared with larger hotels, and some street noise in lower rooms. For a stylish, well-run base on the island, it is one of the best values in its class.