Admiralty

Upper House Hong Kong

★★★★★

Upper House is the hotel Hong Kong's design lovers recommend to each other, and since it opened in 2009 it has won a devoted following for doing everything quietly and well. It sits at the top of a tower above Pacific Place in Admiralty, the shopping and office complex between Central and Wan Chai, with Hong Kong Park on the doorstep and the MTR beneath. The architect and designer André Fu conceived it as a tranquil, residential retreat, and the effect is immediate: after the bustle of Queensway you ride an escalator into a hushed, softly lit lobby of natural limestone and timber, and the noise of the city disappears. There are only around a hundred and twenty rooms, and they are among the largest in Hong Kong, with an understated palette of wood, stone and soft fabrics, deep bathtubs set by the window and, from every room, views of Victoria Harbour or the city and the Peak. Thoughtful touches include a well-stocked complimentary minibar of local snacks, yoga mats and a personal welcome from the guest experience team rather than a front desk. The hotel's restaurant and bar sit high up with sweeping harbour views, there is a landscaped lawn for events, and the wellness program includes spa and in-room treatments, wellness residencies and quiet spaces for relaxation. The service is personal and attentive without being stiff, and the staff are known for remembering guests. For travelers who want to sleep somewhere peaceful in the middle of a very busy city, it is hard to beat.

The location in Admiralty is excellent for sightseeing. The MTR station connects directly to Pacific Place, giving quick access to every line, including the South Island line to Ocean Park. Central, with its offices, restaurants and the Peak Tram, is a ten-minute walk or one MTR stop away; Wan Chai and its old neighborhoods are just east. Hong Kong Park, with its aviary, tea museum and gardens, is right outside. Pacific Place has shopping, a supermarket, cinemas and restaurants, which is convenient on rainy days. The hotel is part of Swire's House Collective, alongside sister hotels in mainland China, and it was recently renamed Upper House Hong Kong.

Choosing a room: the Studio rooms are already large; the harbour-view rooms are the most sought after, with sweeping views across Victoria Harbour, while the island-view rooms look toward the Peak and the city, and are lovely at night too. Suites are very large and suited to longer stays and families. Ask for a high floor. Breakfast is excellent, and the bar is a lovely place for an evening drink with the skyline spread out below, popular with locals as well as guests.

Who it suits: couples, design lovers, business travelers who want calm, and anyone who prefers intimate hotels over grand ones. The trade-offs: there is no full-scale spa or large pool, and the hotel's calm minimalism may feel too quiet for those who want a lively scene. The entrance, via an escalator from Pacific Place, is also not easy to find the first time. But for space, peace and design, Upper House remains one of Asia's finest small luxury hotels.