Falaknuma Palace

Falaknuma Palace sits on a hill above the Old City, its name meaning mirror of the sky, and few buildings in India deliver such a sense of arrival. It was built in the late nineteenth century for Nawab Vicar-ul-Umra, the prime minister of Hyderabad and a leading noble of the Paigah family, who is said to have wanted a residence worthy of his rank and designed with European taste. The palace is built of Italian marble in a mix of Tudor and Italianate styles around a central courtyard, with arched colonnades, a grand staircase, a famous dining hall and long galleries whose windows look out across the city. The sixth Nizam, Mahbub Ali Khan, later bought it and used it to host royal guests. After years of decline the palace was restored over a long period and reopened in 2010 as a luxury hotel run by Taj, which means it is open to non-guests only through bookings such as tours, high tea and dining. The restoration returned the interiors to their former glory, including the chandeliers, rosewood furniture, stained glass and a library with rare volumes. The dining hall is among the best known rooms, with a table said to seat more than a hundred guests, and it is as sumptuous as the palace's reputation suggests.

Because the palace is a working hotel, you cannot simply turn up. Visits are arranged through guided tours that include a meal or high tea, and the product linked here is a guided tour of the palace with lunch, which gives a structured visit of the main rooms and a seated meal in a royal setting.

A related heritage walk with high tea is also offered by some operators, so check what your option includes. Expect to be met at the entrance, taken through the public rooms by a guide who explains the history and the objects, and given time to take photographs in the places where it is permitted.

The tour is worth the cost mainly for the interiors and the story. The palace was the setting for state banquets for visiting dignitaries, the guest list of the Nizam's court is part of the lore, and the guides tell stories of the nobles who built and used it. For anyone interested in architecture, the mix of European revival styles with Indian craftsmanship, the huge chandeliers and the long vistas through the rooms are a highlight, and for photographers the afternoon light through the stained glass can be striking.

Plan the logistics with care. The palace is on a hill south of the Old City, so allow time in traffic and a reliable car, and a dress code applies in the dining areas, with smart casual dress the usual standard. Book ahead, since tours are limited and the palace is also a hotel with events, and ask about timing, since lunch and tea slots are fixed.

The visit pairs well with Chowmahalla Palace and Charminar, so many travellers do the Old City in the morning and the palace in the afternoon. If you are staying in the city and want the full experience, the palace also takes overnight guests.