Two cities in one
Hyderabad is easiest to understand as a city with two faces. The Old City, south of the Musi river, is the Hyderabad of the Qutb Shahi kings and the Nizams: Charminar, Mecca Masjid, Laad Bazaar and Chowmahalla Palace sit within walking distance of each other, surrounded by lanes of pearls, bangles, perfume and Irani cafes. The newer city, in the west and north, is a different place altogether, with glass towers in HITEC City, upscale neighbourhoods such as Banjara Hills and Jubilee Hills, and the big lake of Hussain Sagar in between. Most visitors spend their days in the Old City and the forts and their evenings in the newer districts, where most hotels are.
Start with the big four
If you have one day, see Charminar and its bazaars in the morning, Chowmahalla Palace or the Salar Jung Museum around midday, and Golconda Fort in the afternoon, finishing with the sound and light show if the schedule allows. With two or three days, add the Qutb Shahi Tombs, Falaknuma Palace, the Nizam's Museum, a heritage walk and a food walk. The attractions in this guide are arranged so that most can be paired: Charminar with Mecca Masjid and Laad Bazaar, Golconda with the tombs, and the museums with each other.
Getting around
Hyderabad is large and the distances between sights are bigger than they look on a map. Traffic is heavy at rush hours, and the best way to see several places in a day is a private car with a driver or a guided tour that includes transfers. App-based taxis and auto-rickshaws are widely used and inexpensive, and the metro is useful for some north-south and east-west trips, although it does not serve the Old City well. Allow more time than you expect, especially between the Old City and the western districts, where a journey of ten kilometres can take an hour.
Time your days
The Old City is at its best early in the morning, when the lanes are quiet and the light is soft, and in the early evening when the bazaars are alive. Forts and tombs are best in the morning, before the heat. Museums are good for the middle of the day, particularly in summer. Remember the closing days: the major museums and the Chowmahalla Palace are closed on Fridays, the Golconda sound and light show does not run on Mondays, and Friday midday is prayer time at Mecca Masjid, when sightseeing is not possible.
What to wear
Dress modestly. Shoulders and knees should be covered in mosques, temples and the Old City generally, and women should carry a scarf for mosque visits. Lightweight cotton clothes are best in the heat, with a layer for air-conditioned museums and for winter evenings. Comfortable closed shoes are essential, because you will walk on uneven ground and remove shoes at religious sites, so slip-ons are easier. A hat, sunglasses and sunscreen are useful in every season.
Food and health
Hyderabadi food is a highlight, and most visitors eat well. Choose busy places where food is cooked fresh and served hot, drink bottled or filtered water, and be cautious with raw salads and ice if you have a sensitive stomach. Spice levels are high, so ask for less spice if you are unsure. The food guide in this series covers the dishes to try and where to start. Carry hand sanitiser and any medicines you may need, and consider travel insurance that covers medical care.
Money and bargaining
Cards are widely accepted in hotels and larger shops, but cash is useful in the Old City, for small purchases, tips and entry fees. Bargaining is normal in bazaars, with a polite smile and a fair counter-offer. For pearls, ask for a certificate and be cautious of claims about rare stones. Entry fees at monuments are modest, and foreign visitors often pay a higher rate than Indian citizens, which is posted at the ticket counter.
Respect and etiquette
The Old City is a religious and conservative area, and the call to prayer shapes the rhythm of the day. Be quiet in mosques, ask before photographing people, and do not photograph women without permission. During Ramadan, the area around Charminar comes alive at night with food stalls and shopping, and it is a rewarding time to visit, but daytime eating in public may be discreet. Public displays of affection are best avoided, and a friendly, curious attitude goes a long way.
Safety and scams
Hyderabad is generally considered one of the more relaxed large cities in India for visitors, but common sense applies. Keep valuables secure in crowds, use licensed taxis or app-based rides, agree prices in advance with auto-rickshaw drivers, and be wary of anyone who offers a shortcut to a shop. Check the latest travel advice from your government before you go, and keep copies of your passport and visa. Your hotel can advise on conditions in any particular neighbourhood.
Plan the shape of your trip
Most first-timers do well with three days in the city, with an optional day trip. If you have more time, add Pochampally, Warangal and Ramappa, Bidar or Srisailam, and consider a stay at Falaknuma Palace for one night. Book popular experiences such as the palace tour, the sound and light show and the food walk in advance, particularly in winter, and keep one flexible day for rest, shopping or the unexpected. With a little planning, Hyderabad rewards visitors with some of the richest history, food and craft in India.