The forests around Iquitos are not all the same. In places, the soil is not the rich dark earth of the floodplain but pale quartz sand, and on it grows a very different forest known as varillal or white-sand forest. Trees are thin and slender, the canopy is lower and more open, and the streams run dark with tannins. This habitat is rare, patchy and home to specialist plants and birds that live nowhere else, which is why part of it has been protected in the Allpahuayo-Mishana National Reserve near the city. A guided hike here is a very different experience from a river trip, and it appeals to walkers, birders and people who want to see the forest on foot.
The hike usually starts with a drive from Iquitos along the road toward Nauta, followed by a walk on trails through the forest. Guides explain the differences between white-sand and clay-soil forests, point out carnivorous plants and medicinal trees and look for birds and other wildlife. The terrain is mostly flat but can be muddy, and the day can be humid and hot.
The trail takes you through light and shade, and in some areas you may encounter small streams and sandy clearings. Because the soil is poor, plants have adapted in remarkable ways, and the guide can show you how.
Birdwatching is the main attraction for specialist visitors. The white-sand forests near Iquitos host several species that are very localized, and keen birders travel from around the world to tick them off. Even if you are not a birder, the sounds of the forest, the quiet and the unusual plant life make the walk rewarding. Early morning is best, when birds are most active and the temperature is lower. Bring binoculars if you have them, and ask your guide to point out any specialties.
Practical points
Wear lightweight long trousers and a long-sleeved shirt, sturdy closed shoes or boots, a hat and sun protection, and carry plenty of water and repellent. A rain jacket is wise in all seasons. The trip is usually a half or full day and may include a picnic lunch. Take care on trails and stay with your guide, since the forest is easy to get lost in. Check the length and difficulty of the walk when you book, and tell the operator about any health concerns.
This outing suits travelers who prefer walking to boats and who want to see a different side of the Amazon. It combines well with a birdwatching trip, a visit to a rescue center or a lodge stay on the river. If you have a day to spare in Iquitos and want to avoid crowds, a white-sand forest hike is one of the quietest and most distinctive ways to spend it.
Allow some flexibility for the weather. Rain makes the trails slippery and can change the route, but it also brings out frogs and fungi and makes the forest feel alive. A light poncho is easier to wear on trails than a heavy jacket. After the hike, a hot shower and a cold drink in Iquitos will feel very good, and a short rest before dinner is wise. If you have time, spend a second day on a river trip to contrast the two habitats.
What to expect
The experience
A guided hike on forest trails in a white-sand habitat near Iquitos, with explanations of the soils, plants and birds, often including a picnic lunch.
Best time
Early morning for birds and the coolest temperatures.
How long
Half a day to a full day, depending on the route.
Tips
Wear sturdy shoes, long light clothing, a hat and repellent, carry water, and stay with the guide on the trails.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Walkers and birders who want to see a unique ecosystem on foot.
- Families
- Older children who like walking can enjoy it, but it is hot and humid.
- Couples
- A quiet and unusual outing for couples who prefer nature to crowds.
- Pair with
- A birdwatching day, a visit to a rescue center or a lodge stay.
- Time needed
- Half a day to a full day.
Good questions
Why is the forest called white sand?+
The soil is made of pale quartz sand, which supports a different, lower and more open forest than the usual clay soils.
Is the hike difficult?+
The terrain is mostly flat, but heat, humidity and mud can make it tiring. Ask about the distance when booking.
What wildlife is there?+
Birds are the highlight, including specialists found only in this habitat, along with insects, frogs and sometimes monkeys.
How do I get there?+
The tour provides transport by road from Iquitos, usually along the road toward Nauta.
Do I need binoculars?+
They are helpful, especially for birds, but not essential.