Fener & Balat

On the southern shore of the Golden Horn, beyond the old city walls of the Ottoman center, lie two neighborhoods that tell a different story of Istanbul. Fener, the Phanar of the Greeks, has been the seat of the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople, the spiritual center of Orthodox Christianity, since the late sixteenth century, and the Patriarchate's Church of St George still welcomes visitors. Above it towers the Phanar Greek Orthodox College, a red-brick fortress of a school built in the late nineteenth century and visible from all over the Golden Horn. Next door, Balat was for centuries home to a large Jewish community, with synagogues such as the Ahrida, founded by Jews from Ohrid, alongside Greek and Armenian neighbors. On the waterfront stands the Bulgarian Church of St Stephen, a remarkable Gothic Revival church made of prefabricated cast-iron panels shipped from Vienna in the 1890s and beautifully restored. Up the hill, steep cobbled lanes are lined with brightly painted wooden and brick houses, laundry strung between windows, antique and junk shops, old-fashioned grocers, bakeries and a new generation of cafes and galleries that have made the area one of the most photographed in the city. Many of the old communities have long since left, and parts of the district are still poor, but that mix of faded grandeur, everyday life and new energy is exactly what makes it worth the trip. Walk it slowly, and climb to the top for views across the Golden Horn.

Getting there and around: Fener and Balat are about twenty minutes by bus or taxi from Eminonu along the Golden Horn shore, and ferries on the Golden Horn line stop at both. The lanes are steep and cobbled, so wear good shoes. A good loop starts at the Church of St Stephen on the waterfront, climbs to the Patriarchate and the red-brick school, then heads west into Balat's colored streets, around Kiremit Caddesi and the famous painted staircases, and back down to the shore via the old market street. Allow half a day, longer if you linger in the cafes and antique shops. From Balat it is a short ride further to the Chora (Kariye), with its Byzantine mosaics, and the Theodosian Land Walls.

Etiquette: these are residential neighborhoods, and the boom in photo shoots has strained local patience. Do not photograph people or their homes without asking, keep noise down, and do not climb on steps or doorways for pictures. The Patriarchate is a working church; dress modestly and keep voices low. Synagogues generally require advance arrangements to visit. On weekends the most famous streets fill with photographers and visitors, so weekday mornings are calmest.

Eating: Balat's cafes serve generous Turkish breakfasts, the traditional spread of cheeses, olives, eggs, honey, clotted cream and fresh bread, and the area has small family restaurants serving home-style dishes. Look for old-fashioned pudding shops and bakeries, and finish with tea overlooking the Golden Horn. If you have extra time, continue by ferry or bus up the Golden Horn to Eyup, one of the holiest sites in Istanbul, and ride the cable car to the Pierre Loti cafe for the view back down the water.