Istiklal Avenue & Beyoglu

In the nineteenth century, Pera, the hill across the Golden Horn from the old city, was the European face of Istanbul: home to embassies, Levantine merchants, Greek, Armenian and Jewish families, and the hotels and cafes where travelers arrived off the Orient Express. Its main street, the Grande Rue de Pera, was renamed Istiklal Caddesi, Independence Avenue, after the founding of the republic, and today it is the city's most famous pedestrian street, about one and a half kilometres long, running from Taksim Square down to Tunel at the top of Galata. Along it stand elegant late-Ottoman apartment buildings, the Galatasaray High School gates, the Catholic Church of St Anthony of Padua, consulates in grand old embassy buildings, and arcades such as the Cicek Pasaji, the Flower Passage, lined with taverns. The red nostalgic tram rattles up and down the middle, and the side streets lead to the fish market and meyhane taverns of Balik Pazari and Nevizade, the bohemian lanes of Cihangir and Asmalimescit, and museums such as the Pera Museum. By day it is a shopping street, full of chain stores, bookshops, record shops and cafes; by evening, it fills with crowds heading to dinner, bars and live music. It is busy, energetic and sometimes overwhelming, and a stroll along it is the best introduction to modern Istanbul after the old city's monuments. GoTurkiye's Istiklal guide covers the street's history and landmarks.

How to do it: start at Taksim Square, with its Republic Monument and the modern Ataturk Cultural Center opera house, and walk downhill so the avenue slopes in your favor. Duck into the passages as you go: Cicek Pasaji for its taverns, the Balik Pazari market street for meze, pickles, fish and stuffed mussels, and the nineteenth-century arcades with their old shops. Halfway down, the Galatasaray High School marks the center; further on, St Anthony's Church, set back behind a courtyard, is the largest Catholic church in the city and welcomes visitors. Near the bottom, the street narrows toward Tunel, where you can ride the historic underground funicular, one of the oldest in the world, down to Karakoy, or walk down Galip Dede Caddesi to the Galata Tower.

Eating and drinking: Beyoglu is the heart of Istanbul's meyhane culture, long evenings of cold and hot meze, grilled fish and raki, shared among friends, and the lanes of Nevizade and Asmalimescit are the classic places for it. Earlier in the day, look for traditional puddings and pastries, a stuffed mussel from a street vendor, and wet burgers near Taksim late at night. Rooftop bars on the hillside look across to the old city. Prices vary hugely, so check menus, and be wary of strangers who suggest a bar: the well-known Beyoglu bar scam involves friendly approaches that end with an inflated bill.

Know before you go: Istiklal is extremely crowded on weekend evenings and can see a heavy police presence, and Taksim Square is sometimes closed off during demonstrations or on politically sensitive dates; if you see barriers, take another route. Keep an eye on your phone and wallet in the crowds. The avenue is pedestrianized, with only the nostalgic tram and service vehicles, so it is pleasant with kids by day. Many travelers base themselves in Beyoglu or Galata for exactly this energy, with the old city a short tram or funicular ride away.