Groznjan and Oprtalj

Beyond Motovun, Istria is dotted with small hill towns that have escaped mass tourism, and Groznjan and Oprtalj are two of the most charming. Groznjan, perched on a ridge above the Mirna valley, was largely abandoned after the Second World War, then revived by artists and musicians who took over the empty houses. Today it has galleries, studios and a summer program of concerts and workshops, and its lanes feel creative and relaxed. Oprtalj, a few kilometres away, is smaller and quieter, with a Venetian loggia, a church with old frescoes and a lookout over the surrounding countryside. A half-day tour links the two and stops for tastings of cheese, prosciutto, olive oil and wine at family farms and cellars.

Groznjan's appeal lies in the contrast between stone walls and bright art. Walk through the gate and you find small studios where painters, sculptors and ceramicists work, and benches where students from the town's music school practice in the evening. In summer, the town hosts a program of jazz and classical concerts, and the whole village hums with instruments.

The central square is small, but the views are huge, covering vineyards and olive groves rolling toward the horizon. Oprtalj offers a different mood: it is quieter, with a handful of residents and a handful of cafes, and its charm is the sense of stepping into a village that time forgot.

The tasting element makes the trip tasty as well as scenic. Local families produce cured meats, sheep and cow cheese, honey, olive oil and wine, often in outbuildings behind their homes. A guide introduces the producers, explains how the products are made and helps you choose what to buy.

Expect generous portions and unhurried hospitality, which can be a counterpoint to the more polished feel of coastal restaurants. Wine is likely to be Malvazija or Muscat, perhaps with a sample of the red Teran. If you drive, plan designated drivers or choose a tour with transport.

Timing and planning are straightforward. Tours usually last three to four hours and depart from coastal towns such as Poreč, Rovinj or Novigrad, though pickup points vary. Wear walking shoes for steep lanes, and carry water, cash for small purchases and a light layer for the breeze. Spring brings wildflowers, summer brings concerts and autumn brings harvest and truffle season, while winter is quiet and many places close.

The trip works well with Motovun or the Parenzana trail to make a full inland day. For travellers who want more than coastal beaches, these two villages give a taste of the quieter, older Istria that locals love.

It is worth remembering how recently these villages came back to life. After the war and the territorial changes that followed, many residents left, and houses stood empty for decades. The revival of Groznjan began when musicians and artists arrived, and an international youth music camp helped to establish its identity, so you will often hear practice drifting from open windows.

Oprtalj is quieter still and has been slowly restored by families who value its tranquility. Visiting is a small contribution to this recovery, so buying a painting, a jar of honey or a bottle of oil from a local maker is a good way to say thank you.