Umaid Bhawan Palace

Umaid Bhawan Palace stands on Chittar Hill on the edge of Jodhpur and looks like nothing else in Rajasthan. Built between 1929 and 1943 for Maharaja Umaid Singh, it blends Indian detailing with the streamlined lines of European Art Deco, and its central dome rises above wings of golden sandstone assembled without mortar. The project is often described as a famine-relief effort, since it gave work to thousands of local people during a long drought. Today the building is shared by the royal family, a Taj-run luxury hotel and a museum open to visitors. Even if you are not staying here, the museum, the gardens and a drink or meal on the grounds make it one of the most rewarding stops in the city.

The palace was designed by the British architect Henry Vaughan Lanchester, and its scale still surprises. A grand domed hall, wide stairways, marble floors and carefully finished interiors give the impression of a European grand hotel transplanted to the desert, but details such as carved stone brackets and courtyard layouts are plainly Rajasthani. The golden Chittar sandstone gives the exterior a warm tone that deepens at sunset.

The museum wing is the usual way for non-guests to see the palace. Displays include royal portraits, weapons, trophies, Art Deco furniture, an extensive collection of clocks and watches and a gallery of vintage cars from the royal garage. It gives a vivid sense of twentieth-century princely life, when Jodhpur's rulers travelled by aeroplane, collected European luxury goods and kept up ceremonial traditions at the same time. Check the opening days and hours before you go, since they can change and some areas are reserved for hotel guests.

For a longer visit, consider afternoon tea or dinner at one of the hotel's restaurants. Access policies for non-guests vary and usually require a reservation, so ask in advance. The lawns and terraces are among the most photogenic in Jodhpur, and peacocks often wander the grounds. Dress neatly, since the hotel has standards for its public areas.

Umaid Bhawan sits some distance from the old city, so plan transport. A taxi or tuk-tuk from the fort takes around twenty minutes, depending on traffic. Many visitors combine the palace with a late morning at Jaswant Thada or a sunset view from the fort. It is also a good option for a hot afternoon, when the air-conditioned museum offers a break from the sun.

It helps to appreciate the context. In the 1920s the region suffered a series of poor harvests, and building a vast palace gave employment to many villagers, which is why local people often speak of it with pride as well as awe. The rulers lived in one wing while construction finished, and the royal family retains part of the building today, which explains why some areas are closed to visitors.

If you are on a budget, the museum alone is an inexpensive way to see the interiors and the car collection. If you are celebrating a special occasion, an afternoon tea or evening drink can be the highlight of a trip. Either way, dress smartly, allow time for the taxi each way and enjoy the quiet.