Kaş and Kalkan are two small towns on the western Lycian coast of Turkey, about half an hour apart, and between them they hold a remarkable range of things to do. Kaş is a lively harbour town with an old quarter of lanes and bougainvillea, an ancient theatre facing the sea and a long list of boat, diving and kayaking operators. Kalkan is quieter and more polished, a steep whitewashed village above a small marina, known for terrace dinners and for its villas. Both are bases for day trips to the sunken city at Kekova, the canyon at Saklıkent, the long beach at Patara and the little Greek island of Meis.
When to go
The sea is warm enough for swimming from roughly May to October, and boat trips, diving and kayaking follow the same season. July and August are hot, busy and the most expensive. May, June, September and October are often the best months, with warm water, long days and lighter crowds. Winter is mild but quiet, and many Kalkan restaurants and hotels close, although Kaş stays alive all year with locals and walkers.
What to book ahead
In summer, book the boat day to Kekova, any private charter, diving and your hotel early. Sunset tables in Kalkan are worth reserving. Year-round, the one booking worth fixing early is a day trip that involves a border crossing: the boat to Meis needs your passport and, for some nationalities, advance checks, so read the entry rules before you travel. Everything else is easy to arrange once you arrive, because operators are on the harbour and hotel receptions help.
How to get around
Kaş town is walkable, and Kalkan old town is walkable too, though steep. Dolmuş minibuses link Kaş, Kalkan, Kaputaş and Patara, with frequent services in summer and fewer in winter. Taxis are plentiful for short hops. A rental car is useful if you want to reach Saklıkent, Tlos and Xanthos on your own timetable, but the coast road has many bends, and organised tours collect from hotels if you would rather not drive. Dalaman and Antalya airports are the two entry points, each a long drive away, so book a transfer in advance.
How many days
Four days covers the essentials, and a week lets you slow down. Day one: Kaş old town, harbour and theatre. Day two: a boat to Kekova, either a shared boat or a kayak tour. Day three: Saklıkent Gorge and Patara by tour or car. Day four: a beach day at Kaputaş or Patara, or the trip to Meis. With a week you can add diving, a cooking class, a Lycian Way walk and an evening in Kalkan.
Where the sights fit
Kekova and Demre lie east, a long half-day from Kaş. Kaputaş and Kalkan are on the road west. Patara and Saklıkent lie further inland and west, and are often combined in one day. Meis is reached by boat from Kaş harbour. Because the sights point in different directions, base yourself where you will enjoy the evenings, and treat the rest as day trips.
What it costs
Kaş is a good-value place by Mediterranean standards. Boat days, diving and private charters make up the main costs. Free pleasures include the old town, the theatre, Kaputaş Beach, parts of Patara and walks on the Lycian Way. Many small restaurants serve generous meals at fair prices, and the fish restaurants on the harbour cost more.
Practical tips
Carry some Turkish lira in cash for gorge fees, dolmuş fares and small shops. Pack water shoes for pebbly coves and the gorge, a hat, sun protection and a light layer for evening boat rides. Dress modestly at religious sites such as the church at Demre. Tap water is not generally drunk, so buy bottled water. Learn a few words of Turkish, such as merhaba and teşekkürler, which are always appreciated.
Choosing between Kaş and Kalkan
Choose Kaş if you want activity, nightlife, diving and a walkable centre with plenty of choice. Choose Kalkan if you want a calm, romantic stay with views and good food. Many travellers split their stay, three nights in one and three in the other. If you are short of time, base in Kaş, which is closer to the boats and has more transport links, and visit Kalkan for a dinner.
Safety and health
Tap water is generally not recommended for drinking, sun protection is essential, and the sea can have currents at exposed beaches, so follow flags. Roads are winding, so drive carefully and avoid overtaking on bends. Pharmacies are plentiful and pharmacists can advise on minor issues, and travel insurance is wise if you plan to dive or take part in adventure activities.