Kiruna sits beneath the auroral oval, the ring around the magnetic pole where the Northern Lights are most often seen, which means the display is common here on clear dark nights. The season runs roughly from late August to early April, when the sky is dark enough, and the odds improve with several nights of effort. This guide explains how to plan, where to go and how to get the most from your evenings.
What causes the aurora
Charged particles from the sun hit gases in the upper atmosphere, producing green, and sometimes red and purple, light. Activity rises and falls with the solar cycle and with short-term storms. You do not need a strong storm to see something in Kiruna, because the town is so far north that even moderate activity can produce a visible glow. Cloud is a bigger problem than weak activity.
When to go
The darkest months are from November to February, but the aurora is also visible in autumn and in March and early April, when temperatures are milder and the days are longer. Late summer and early autumn bring dark nights without deep winter cold. Moonlight can make faint displays harder to see, but strong ones remain bright. Plan for at least three nights to allow for cloud.
Kiruna or Abisko
Kiruna offers tours that drive out to dark sites, and it has the most accommodation and food. Abisko, about ninety minutes west, has a reputation for clearer skies because of the way the mountains and lake shape the weather, and the Aurora Sky Station on Mount Nuolja offers a mountain-top viewpoint. A good plan is to base yourself in Kiruna for a few nights and add an Abisko evening, or to stay in Abisko if the sky is your priority.
Choosing a tour
Small-group chases follow the clouds by car or minibus and tend to give the best odds. Photographer-led tours teach settings and take portraits. Dinner tours, whether a Sámi barbecue, a tipi on a mountain or a meal in Abisko, add comfort to the waiting. Snowmobile expeditions combine the ride with the sky. Whatever you choose, ask about the group size and what is provided.
Photography basics
Use a tripod or a solid support, a wide lens, a high ISO, an open aperture and an exposure of roughly five to fifteen seconds. On phones, use night mode with a timer. Focus on a distant star or light, and turn off the flash. Bring spare batteries and keep them warm inside your coat. Let your gear warm up slowly when you go indoors to avoid condensation.
What to wear
Standing still at night in deep cold requires more clothing than you expect. Wear thermal underwear, a wool mid-layer, an insulated coat or overalls, thick socks, insulated boots, a warm hat and layered gloves. Chemical hand warmers help. A flask of something hot is a good companion.
If it is cloudy
Check the forecast, ask your guide where the gaps are and be willing to drive. If the sky stays closed, use the night to rest, enjoy the sauna or a good meal, and try again tomorrow. Having a flexible schedule is the single best way to improve your odds.
Forecast tools
Apps and websites that show aurora activity, cloud cover and the Kp index are useful, but they are only guides. The sky can change quickly, and guides combine these tools with experience. Do not be discouraged by a low forecast number in Kiruna, as the latitude helps. Listen to your guide, stay patient and keep looking up.
Ethics and etiquette
On group tours, keep lights low and phones dim so that others can see the sky. Avoid shining torches toward the horizon, and use a red light if you need to see. Be patient with photographers, who may need a few minutes to set up. Stay with your group and follow the guide's instructions, particularly near roads and frozen lakes.
Health and safety
Extreme cold can cause frostbite and hypothermia, so watch your fingers, toes and face. Keep moving, drink warm liquids and go inside if you feel numb. Never walk onto a frozen lake alone or without a guide, since ice thickness varies. Let someone know where you are going if you leave a group.
Making the most of the wait
Aurora nights involve long stretches of standing and waiting, so bring a folding seat pad, hand warmers and a hot drink. Talk with your group, listen to the guide's stories and look at the stars while you wait. Satellites, meteors and the Milky Way are part of the show, and you may spot the pale glow that comes before a stronger display.