Vela Luka and the Vela Spila Cave

Vela Luka is the island's second town and its quiet, practical counterpart to Korčula Town. It sits at the head of a deep, sheltered bay on the western end, and for many travellers it is where they first step ashore, because the ferry from the mainland arrives here. The town has a working harbour, a pleasant promenade lined with cafes, a handful of restaurants serving the day's catch and a cultural centre with a small museum. Behind it, olive terraces climb into low hills, and from the top of Hum hill a long view takes in the bay, the town roofs and the nearby islets at sunset. It is a good base for people who want a lower-key stay, and a good day trip for those who would like to see how the island lives away from the old town crowds.

Above the town, the Vela Spila cave is one of the most important prehistoric sites on the Adriatic. Excavations have shown human presence over many thousands of years, from the Stone Age to later periods, and the finds include pottery, tools and ornaments that help explain how early communities lived on the islands. The cave is a protected archaeological site, so access is arranged rather than casual, and visits depend on guided arrangements and season.

Ask locally or at the cultural centre in town before you plan, because opening and tour times change. Even if the cave itself is closed, the hillside and the story are worth the stop, and a small museum shows some of the discoveries.

Vela Luka rewards a slow day. Walk the harbour front, take a coffee, then follow the signed paths up toward Hum for a late-afternoon hike. Local operators run sunset hikes, tasting tours and buggy safaris that visit olive presses, and the town is known for olive oil, fish and a number of small family producers.

The sea is clean, and rocky coves with ladders and platforms line the shore for swimming. In summer the town hosts concerts and festivals, and in the off season it returns to a calm rhythm that suits walkers, cyclists and photographers.

Getting around is easy. A bus or taxi links Vela Luka to Korčula Town in under an hour along the island road, and the ferry to the mainland runs year-round with a seasonal timetable you should check in advance. If you drive, the road crosses vineyards and pine forest, with several viewpoints on the way.

Pair Vela Luka with a stop in Blato, whose linden avenue and village life lie between the two towns. A visit takes half a day if you rush, and a full day if you hike, taste and swim. It is a pleasant reminder that Korčula is more than its famous old town.

Food is part of the appeal here. Fishermen still land their catch in the harbour, and the restaurants along the front serve grilled fish, black risotto, octopus and shellfish, along with the region's olive oil and wines. A local bakery sells fresh bread and pastries in the morning, and small shops sell honey, herbs and liqueurs.

If you enjoy markets, ask when the local stalls open, because produce from the surrounding valleys is excellent. In summer the evening promenade is lively, with families strolling, children playing and music from the cafes, and it is easy to feel part of the town rather than a visitor.