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First Time in Kotor

Kotor guide

First Time in Kotor

The practical primer for a first visit to Kotor and its bay: what is worth booking, how to dodge the cruise crowds, getting in from the airports, and how to fit Perast, Budva and Lovćen around the Old Town.

Kotor is small, but the bay around it is not, and the best trips mix the walled Old Town with boats, mountain roads and the coast. A little planning around the cruise ships and the seasons makes all the difference. Here is how to shape a first visit.

How many days

Two full days cover the Old Town, the City Walls and Perast with Our Lady of the Rocks. Three days let you add a boat trip to the Blue Cave or a mountain day at Lovćen. Four or five days give time for Budva and Sveti Stefan and a slower pace, which the bay deserves.

What to book ahead

Very little sells out, but a few things are worth securing in summer. Official City Walls tickets can be bought online, which helps on busy cruise days. Boat trips to the Blue Cave fill up in July and August, and small-group or private boats are worth reserving. Book hotels inside the Old Town early for the high season, and reserve dinner in Perast if you want a waterfront table.

Watch the cruise schedule

Kotor is a major cruise port, and on days with several big ships the Old Town is packed from mid-morning to late afternoon. Check the port schedule, then do the walls at opening, the Old Town in the evening and the bay trips in the middle of the day.

Getting in

Tivat Airport is the closest, a short taxi ride away along the bay. Podgorica Airport, the capital’s airport, is further inland. Many visitors also arrive from Dubrovnik in Croatia, crossing the border; Montenegro is outside the EU and Schengen, so bring your passport and allow time for the crossing in summer. Montenegro uses the euro.

Getting around

Walk in the Old Town, which is car-free. Local buses run along the bay road to Perast and over to Budva, and taxis and apps are reasonably priced. For Lovćen, the hairpin road is best done by tour or taxi unless you are a confident driver. Boats link the bay towns in season.

Day one: Kotor

Climb the City Walls to St John Fortress at opening, before the heat and crowds. Come down to the Old Town, visit St Tryphon Cathedral and the Maritime Museum, and spend the afternoon wandering the squares. Eat in the Old Town in the evening when it is quiet.

Day two: Perast and the islands

Take the bus or a taxi to Perast, cross by boat to Our Lady of the Rocks, climb the bell tower of St Nicholas and have lunch on the water. In season, return by boat or combine it with a Blue Cave tour.

Day three: mountains or coast

Either drive up the switchbacks to Lovćen, stopping in Njeguši for smoked ham, and climb the 461 steps to the Njegoš Mausoleum, or head down the coast to Budva Old Town and the Sveti Stefan viewpoint. Hikers can tackle the Ladder of Kotor instead.

Seasons

Late spring and early autumn are ideal: warm enough to swim, cool enough to climb, and quieter than July and August, when the heat is intense and the cruise crowds peak. Winter is mild and quiet, with many boats and beach businesses closed, but the Old Town and the walls are lovely without the crowds.

Money and manners

Cards are widely accepted, but carry cash for small boats, bell towers and cafés. Dress modestly in churches. The Old Town’s cats are cared for by locals, so admire rather than feed them.

Mentioned in this guide

Do

Kotor Old Town and St Tryphon Cathedral

A walled medieval port of marble lanes, small squares and Romanesque churches at the head of the bay, protected by UNESCO since 1979. Free to wander, with St Tryphon Cathedral at its heart.

Do

Kotor City Walls and St John Fortress

A steep stone path zigzags up the mountain behind the Old Town along the medieval ramparts to the Fortress of St John, 260 metres up, with one of the great views of the Adriatic over the bay.

Our Lady of the Rocks Island Church, PerastDo

Our Lady of the Rocks Island Church, Perast

A tiny blue-domed church on a man-made island off Perast, built up stone by stone by local sailors, with a museum of votive paintings and a famous embroidery stitched with human hair. A short boat ride from the Perast waterfront.

Do

Perast Baroque Town and St Nicholas Bell Tower

A tiny Baroque town of sea captains’ palaces and churches strung along the water about 12 kilometres from Kotor, with a 55-metre bell tower and the bay’s two islands just offshore.

Do

Lovćen National Park and Njegoš Mausoleum

The mountain behind Kotor, reached by a famous switchback road, with the hilltop mausoleum of Montenegro’s poet-prince Njegoš at the top of 461 steps and the smoked-ham village of Njeguši on the way.

Do

Bay of Kotor Boat Tour to the Blue Cave

The classic speedboat or small-boat day on the water: out through the bay past Perast and Our Lady of the Rocks to the open sea, the island fort of Mamula and a swim in the glowing Blue Cave.

Historic Boutique Hotel CattaroStay

Historic Boutique Hotel Cattaro

A four-star hotel inside the Old Town walls, spread across a former Napoleonic-era theatre, a prince’s palace and a sixteenth-century guard tower beside the main square.

Hotel VardarStay

Hotel Vardar

A four-star hotel right on the Square of Arms, just inside the Sea Gate, with 24 rooms, a small wellness area with sauna and Turkish bath, and a terrace on the square.

Hotel MarijaStay

Hotel Marija

A small, good-value hotel inside the Old Town walls, listed by the National Tourist Organisation as suited to families and couples. The budget-friendly way to wake up in Kotor.