Firefly and Proboscis Monkey Cruise

East of the Santubong peninsula lies a network of tidal rivers and mangrove forest where wildlife is easy to see from a small boat. The evening cruise from Kuching is built around two highlights. First comes the proboscis monkey, the long-nosed primate found only on Borneo, which sleeps in riverside trees and can often be seen at dusk as it climbs to its roosting branches. Then, as dark falls, the boat slows and cuts its engine near mangrove trees that glow with fireflies, thousands of tiny lights blinking in unison across the branches. Along the way there are other sightings. Kingfishers perch on overhanging branches, monitor lizards slide down the banks, long-tailed macaques scold the boat and, on lucky evenings, a crocodile slides into the water. Some tours include a local meal in a village before or after the boat ride, which adds a taste of coastal life. The trip is a favourite with visitors who want wildlife without hiking, because everything happens from a comfortable seat on a boat.

The key to a good evening is timing. Proboscis monkeys are most visible in the late afternoon when they gather in trees near the water, and fireflies are best seen after full dark, when the boat is quiet and lights are off. Operators usually plan the schedule around tides, as the narrow channels can be too shallow for passage at low water.

Because of this, departure times shift from day to day, and your hotel pickup may vary. Be flexible about schedule changes, and listen to the boatman, who often has a clear sense of where the monkeys were seen last night and where the best fireflies are gathering.

A few habits make the experience better. Keep flash photography off, as light and noise disturb the animals, and remember that fireflies are hard to photograph without a tripod and a long exposure. It is better to watch than to film. Wear long sleeves and trousers in muted colours and apply repellent before you board, because mosquitoes are numerous near the mangroves at dusk.

Bring a light waterproof layer, and a torch only if the guide asks you to. Children enjoy the experience when they can stay seated and quiet, though very young ones may tire of the dark. Check whether life jackets in your size are provided.

Fireflies in the mangroves rely on a delicate habitat of berembang trees along the river, and visitors help protect them by choosing operators who keep speeds low, avoid shining lights and do not break branches. Wildlife in the wetlands is wild and sightings vary, so treat the trip as a gentle nature outing rather than a guarantee. The cruise pairs well with a daytime visit to Semenggoh for orangutans, which together give you a good sample of Sarawak's great apes, monkeys and insects.

If you also plan to visit Bako National Park, you may see proboscis monkeys there by day, so the firefly element becomes the special part of this cruise, and the reason to choose it. Pack a small dry bag, because the boats are open and sudden showers are common in the wetter months.