Yasaka Shrine

Yasaka Shrine is the beating heart of Gion and one of the most visited shrines in Kyoto. Its vermilion west gate stands at the eastern end of Shijo-dori, the main street of downtown, so it acts as a grand full stop to the city's busiest avenue and a gateway to the Higashiyama hills behind. The shrine's history goes back to at least the year 876, when a deity was invited here to protect the city against epidemics and disaster, and it is still associated with protection against illness. That role gave birth to the Gion Matsuri, one of Japan's most famous festivals, which grew from rites to calm the epidemics of the ninth century and now fills the whole month of July with ceremonies, decorated float displays and the great float processions through central Kyoto. Inside the grounds, the main hall combines worship hall and sanctuary under a single sweeping roof in a style unique to this shrine, and it is designated a National Treasure. In front of it stands the dance stage, the maidono, hung with hundreds of paper lanterns bearing the names of local businesses and teahouses that support the shrine; when they are lit after dark, the scene is one of the loveliest in Kyoto. Smaller sub-shrines fill the precincts, including a shrine to beauty whose spring water is said to benefit the skin, popular with maiko and geiko from Gion. The shrine is free, open at all hours, and a natural link between Gion, Maruyama Park and the temples of Higashiyama.

When to visit. Because it never closes, Yasaka Shrine works at any point in the day. Early morning is peaceful, with priests sweeping the paths and locals stopping to pray on the way to work. Evening is the most atmospheric, when the lanterns on the dance stage glow and the vermilion gate is floodlit at the end of Shijo-dori. On New Year's Eve, thousands come for Okera Mairi, carrying home embers from the sacred fire on ropes, and the first days of the year bring huge crowds for the first shrine visit of the year, as does the July festival. Outside those peaks, a visit takes half an hour.

Shrine etiquette. At the purification fountain, rinse your left hand, then your right, then pour a little water into your cupped hand to rinse your mouth, without touching the ladle to your lips. At the hall, toss a coin into the offering box, ring the bell, bow twice, clap twice, make your wish and bow once more. Omamori charms and omikuji paper fortunes are sold at the shrine office, and a bad fortune can be tied to the racks provided to leave the luck behind. Photography is fine in the grounds, but be discreet around worshippers and ceremonies.

Pairing. Walk out the back of the shrine into Maruyama Park, Kyoto's oldest public park, famous for its giant weeping cherry, illuminated in early April. From there, paths lead south past Kodai-ji and the Nene-no-michi lane to Ninenzaka, Sannenzaka and Kiyomizu-dera, or north to Chion-in's enormous gate. In the other direction, Hanamikoji and the lanes of Gion begin across the road. The shrine is a five-minute walk from Gion-Shijo Station on the Keihan line and about ten minutes from Kyoto-Kawaramachi on the Hankyu line, and many city buses stop at Gion. Food stalls often set up along the paths on festival days and busy weekends, selling grilled skewers, sweets and drinks, which adds to the lively, neighborhood feel. For a quieter moment, step behind the main hall to the smaller sub-shrines, where locals leave offerings and the crowds thin out. Whatever your plans in eastern Kyoto, you will likely pass through Yasaka more than once, and it is worth returning after dark at least one evening.