Nanzen-ji, Northern Higashiyama

Kyoto Nanzenji Garden Ryokan Yachiyo

★★★★★

Staying at least one night in a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn, is one of the great Kyoto experiences, and Kyoto Nanzenji Ryokan Yachiyo is an excellent place to try it without the intimidating formality or extreme prices of the city's most exclusive inns. Established in 1915, it sits on the tree-lined approach road to Nanzen-ji, the great Zen temple at the foot of the Higashiyama hills, in one of the most beautiful and peaceful corners of the city. The ryokan is arranged around a traditional Japanese garden with stones, moss and carefully pruned trees, and many of the rooms look out over it, so you can sit on the tatami, sip green tea and watch the seasons change: maples in autumn, azaleas in spring, fresh moss after rain. Rooms are traditional in style, with tatami and low tables, though the inn is used to international guests and comfortable for first-timers. Meals are a highlight: the restaurant serves seasonal Kyoto cuisine, in an area famous for yudofu, simmered tofu, and can accommodate some Western preferences. The ryokan received a Kyoto Accommodation Award in 2017. Its setting is ideal for exploring northern Higashiyama on foot: Nanzen-ji and its brick aqueduct are steps away, the Philosopher's Path and Ginkaku-ji lie to the north, and Heian Shrine and the Okazaki museums are a short walk west, with hiking trails into the Higashiyama hills less than ten minutes away.

Ryokan etiquette made simple. Take off your shoes at the entrance and wear the slippers provided, but never on tatami; walk on tatami in socks or bare feet. A yukata, a light cotton robe, is provided for lounging and for wearing to dinner and the bath; wrap left over right. In tatami rooms with futon bedding, staff typically lay out the futons while you are at dinner. Meals are served at set times, so let the inn know your arrival time and any dietary requirements in advance. These customs are part of the charm, and the staff are used to guiding first-time guests patiently.

Who it suits. Couples looking for a romantic, traditional night, travelers who want one memorable ryokan stay within a hotel-based trip, and families with older children curious about Japanese life are all well matched. It is less suited to those who need Western beds, very late arrivals, or a lively nightlife area, since the neighborhood is quiet and residential after dark. Ryokan rates are usually quoted per person and often include dinner and breakfast, so compare carefully with hotel prices; the inn sits in the moderate to expensive range. Kyoto's accommodation tax, charged per person per night since March 2026 on a sliding scale by the per-person rate, is added, usually at the 1,000 yen tier.

Getting there. Keage Station on the Tozai subway line is about seven minutes' walk, and downtown Kyoto is about ten minutes by subway. From Kyoto Station, take the subway with a change at Karasuma Oike, or a taxi of around twenty minutes. Plan to spend the early morning walking to Nanzen-ji and the aqueduct before the day-trippers arrive; it is the reward for staying here.