Il Vittoriale degli Italiani

The Vittoriale degli Italiani is one of the strangest and most fascinating places on Lake Garda. It was the home of Gabriele D’Annunzio, the poet, playwright and soldier who became a national figure in the early twentieth century and later a controversial one for his links with the rise of fascism. In 1921 he settled in a villa at Gardone Riviera and over the next years transformed it, with the help of the architect Giancarlo Maroni, into a hillside complex of buildings, gardens, an open-air theatre and a mausoleum. The result is a theatrical, crowded and unforgettable place. The house, called the Prioria, is stuffed with objects, curtains, books and decorations, and its dim interiors reflect the owner’s taste for the dramatic. Outside, the gardens climb the hill past fountains, a theatre with lake views and a navy ship, the Puglia, set into the hillside as if it were sailing over the water. A museum displays aircraft and a motorboat associated with D’Annunzio’s wartime adventures.

Take time to notice the smaller details as you walk. Many rooms in the house are deliberately dark, with heavy curtains and layers of objects, because D’Annunzio liked a dramatic atmosphere and believed that dim light suited contemplation. The estate includes an amphitheatre with a view of the lake, fountains, a cypress-lined avenue and a mausoleum where the poet is buried.

Inscriptions and symbols appear everywhere, and a guide can help you decode them. The mixture of art, ego and politics makes the visit thought-provoking, and visitors often leave with a lot to think about, and with a strong impression of how one person can build a world around himself.

Wear layers inside the house, which can feel cool and damp even in summer, and remember that photography rules may apply in some rooms. A guided visit is useful for the symbolism, and an audio guide may be available for those who prefer to go at their own pace.