Lancaster County is one of the best food regions in the Northeast, and the reason is simple: the farms are right there. The county is among the most productive agricultural counties in Pennsylvania, with dairy, poultry, produce and grain at the center of its economy, and a food culture that grew from German immigrants and Plain communities has been refined for three centuries. Today, the traditional table sits alongside a modern city restaurant scene, so you can eat both ways within a day.
Start with the market
Central Market in Penn Square is the place to taste the county. Stands sell fresh produce, cheese, smoked meats, pickles, baked goods and prepared food, many from Amish and Mennonite families. Try a soft pretzel, a sticky bun, a sandwich from a deli stand and a whoopie pie for dessert. The market operates only on certain days, usually Tuesday, Friday and Saturday, so plan accordingly and arrive early on Saturday before the best items sell out. The Sweet & Savory food tour in the city gives you a guided version, with stops in the downtown core.
The Pennsylvania Dutch table
A family-style meal is a rite of passage. Large bowls and platters of roast chicken, ham, mashed potatoes, buttered noodles, creamed corn, green beans, coleslaw and relishes are passed around the table, and desserts such as shoofly pie, apple dumplings and pies of every kind follow. Chow-chow, a pickled vegetable relish, and pickled red beet eggs are classic accompaniments. For the closest experience to a home meal, consider a hosted tour and meal with an Amish family, which is smaller and more personal than a restaurant.
Pretzels and sweets
Pennsylvania is the center of the American pretzel industry, and Lititz is home to the first commercial pretzel bakery in the country, where you can twist your own. Chocolate also has a local presence, and bakeries across the county sell whoopie pies, sticky buns, funnel cakes and fruit pies. Farm stands sell fresh produce in season, such as strawberries in early summer, sweet corn and tomatoes in high summer and apples and pumpkins in autumn, plus jams, apple butter and honey that travel well.
The new Lancaster
Beyond the traditional table, the city has a lively contemporary scene. Independent restaurants run by chefs who source from nearby farms offer seasonal menus, and the city's mix of cuisines has widened to include Latin American, Asian and Mediterranean options. Coffee roasters and bakeries have multiplied in the downtown blocks, and several are set in converted industrial buildings. Ask your guide or hotel for current favorites, since the scene changes quickly.
Craft beer
Lancaster has a good number of breweries and taprooms for a city of its size, many in former factories and warehouses near the center. A guided brewery walk links several of them in an afternoon or evening with tastings and local history. The county also has wineries and cideries, which take advantage of its orchards and vineyards. Designate a driver or arrange a ride if you plan to visit them in the countryside.
A sample day
Begin with coffee and a pastry from a downtown bakery, then walk to Central Market for a second breakfast of sticky buns or an egg sandwich. Take a mid-morning farm drive and stop at a stand for fruit. Have a late lunch at a family-style restaurant, where the generous plates will fuel an afternoon of sightseeing. For dinner, choose one of the city's independent restaurants and finish with a flight at a taproom or a walk to find ice cream. You will not go hungry, and you will taste a wide slice of the county.
Tips for special diets
Traditional Pennsylvania Dutch cooking is heavy on meat, dairy, butter and wheat, but the city's newer restaurants offer vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. Markets sell fresh produce and salads, and many bakeries offer alternatives on request. Call ahead to farm restaurants if you have strict requirements, and use hosted meals only after confirming the menu with the operator, since the food is prepared in home kitchens.
Practical tips
Many Amish-run businesses close on Sundays, and some restaurants in the countryside close early in the evening, so check hours and make reservations for dinner, particularly on weekends and in autumn. Carry a cooler bag for cheese, cured meats and baked goods you buy during the day. Ask about allergies at family-style restaurants, where dishes are shared. If you are staying in a hotel with a kitchen suite, buy produce from the market and cook a simple meal, which is a pleasant way to taste the season. Whatever you choose, leave room for dessert.