Restauradores / Rossio

Hotel Avenida Palace

★★★★★

The Avenida Palace is old Lisbon hospitality at its most graceful. The hotel stands at the bottom of Avenida da Liberdade on Praça dos Restauradores, next to the neo-Manueline façade of Rossio station, and it was built at the end of the nineteenth century as the city's first grand hotel for travellers arriving by train. Lisbon's tourism board describes it as part of the city's historic heritage, and walking into the lobby feels like stepping back a century: marble floors, crystal chandeliers, a sweeping staircase, gilded mirrors and salons furnished with antiques and period pieces. During the Second World War, when neutral Lisbon was full of refugees, diplomats and spies, the hotel was one of the places where that shadowy world met, and it still has an air of discreet glamour. There are 82 rooms and suites, decorated in a classic style with rich fabrics, traditional furniture and marble bathrooms; some look onto the square and the avenue, others onto quieter inner sides. This is not a hotel of rooftop pools and design statements. Its appeal is elegance, calm and service of the old school, with staff who remember your name and a bar that feels like a private club. The breakfast room is one of the prettiest in the city. It is rated five stars and is consistently one of the most highly reviewed hotels in Lisbon, a favourite with couples, older travellers and anyone who wants a sense of occasion without the price of the newest luxury openings.

The location is about as central as Lisbon gets. Rossio square, the Baixa grid and the Chiado are a few minutes' walk; the Restauradores metro station is outside; Rossio station next door runs trains to Sintra, which makes day trips effortless; and the Glória funicular, currently closed, used to start from the square opposite. Avenida da Liberdade, with its shops and kiosks, runs north from the door, and the São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint is a short uphill walk.

Living in it: rooms facing the square have the grand views but some traffic noise; inner rooms are quieter. Suites and the larger rooms are worth the upgrade for a special trip. There is no spa or pool, so this is a hotel for people who spend their days out exploring and come back to calm and comfort. Breakfast in the salon and an evening drink in the bar are part of the experience.

Base math: rates are high but usually below the newest luxury hotels on Avenida da Liberdade, and you pay for location, history and service rather than facilities. It is ideal for couples, first-timers who want everything on foot, and anyone planning a Sintra day, since the train leaves from next door. Families with young children may prefer a hotel with more space and amenities.