The Desertas are three long, rocky islands that rise out of the Atlantic roughly twenty-five kilometres south-east of Funchal. From the city they look like a low, dark wall on the horizon. Up close, they are steep ridges of volcanic rock with almost no trees, home to sea birds, rare plants and one of the last colonies of Mediterranean monk seals, one of the most endangered marine mammals in the world. The islands, Deserta Grande, Bugio and Ilhéu Chão, are a protected nature reserve, and landing is tightly controlled, so the best way to see them is from the water. A day cruise by catamaran from Funchal marina takes you out to the islands, along their sheer cliffs and into sheltered water where you can swim and snorkel.
How the day works
Boats leave from the marina in Funchal, usually in the morning, and head out across open water for an hour or more. The crossing is half of the experience, because the same stretch of sea is rich in marine life. Bottlenose and common dolphins are regular companions, and sharp-eyed passengers may spot flying fish, turtles or sea birds.
Once you reach the islands the crew slows down to cruise along the cliffs, stops in a calm bay for a swim, and serves lunch on board. Operators vary in what they include, from snacks and drinks to a full barbecue, so check the details when you book.
The crossing itself can be lively. The Atlantic between Madeira and the Desertas is open sea, and the swell depends on the wind and the season. A catamaran is more stable than a small boat, but anyone prone to seasickness should take a remedy beforehand, sit towards the middle of the boat and keep an eye on the horizon.
Bring a hat, sunscreen, a windproof layer, a swimsuit and a towel. Many boats provide snorkel gear and sometimes a net or a slide for swimmers, and the water around the islands is clear and fresh even when it is cool.
Respect the reserve
The Desertas are not a place for casual landings, and boats keep a distance from the shoreline and the seal caves. Good operators brief passengers on the rules and run small, responsible groups. If you care about wildlife, ask how many passengers the boat carries and what the operator does to avoid disturbing animals.
The day is long, usually six to eight hours, so treat it as your main activity and plan a quiet evening. It makes a perfect partner to a whale and dolphin trip for those who love the sea, and a good option on the days when the mountains are in cloud but the coast is clear.
What else you might see
Besides dolphins, the waters around the islands can bring sightings of sea turtles, shearwaters and other sea birds that nest on the cliffs, and in some seasons whales pass through on their migration. The rocky shores below the waterline are part of a protected marine area, so the underwater world is richer than the barren look of the islands suggests. Bring binoculars if you have them, a waterproof case for your phone and a spare layer for the return, when the wind often rises and the boat feels cooler than it did on the way out.
What to expect
The experience
A full-day catamaran cruise from Funchal marina across open water to the Desertas Islands, with a wildlife watch, a swim stop and lunch on board.
Best time
Calm, clear days from late spring through early autumn usually give the smoothest crossing and the best swimming.
How long
Plan on six to eight hours from departure to return.
Tips
Take a seasickness remedy if you need one, and bring sunscreen, a hat, a windproof layer and swimwear.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Wildlife lovers and sea people who want a full day on the Atlantic.
- Families
- Good for older children who are happy on a boat all day; the crossing can be bumpy.
- Couples
- Share the sunshine, a swim in a quiet bay and lunch with the cliffs behind you.
- Pair with
- A whale and dolphin trip, or a sunset catamaran cruise on another evening.
- Time needed
- A full day.
Good questions
How far are the Desertas Islands from Funchal?+
They lie about twenty-five kilometres south-east of Funchal, and the crossing by catamaran takes roughly an hour or more depending on the conditions.
Can you land on the Desertas Islands?+
Landing is tightly restricted because the islands are a protected nature reserve, so cruises view the cliffs from the water and stop to swim in a sheltered bay.
Will I see dolphins on the Desertas cruise?+
Dolphins are common on the crossing, though wildlife is never guaranteed. Whales are also seen in some seasons.
Is the Desertas cruise good for people who get seasick?+
The open-sea crossing can be bumpy. A catamaran is steadier than a small boat, but take a remedy beforehand and sit near the middle of the boat if you are prone to seasickness.
What should I bring on the Desertas cruise?+
Bring sunscreen, a hat, a windproof layer, swimwear, a towel and a camera. Check what food, drinks and snorkel gear the operator provides.
