Hukuru Miskiy (Old Friday Mosque)

Hukuru Miskiy, the Old Friday Mosque, is the most important historic building in the Maldives and the one sight in Malé that tells you who the Maldivians are. It was built in 1658 from interlocking blocks of coral stone, carved with fine floral and geometric patterns, with a roof supported by cut coral columns and lacquered woodwork inside. The minaret beside it dates from 1675. Visit Maldives describes them as the oldest built structures in Malé today, and the mosque is surrounded by a historic cemetery with tombstones carved in coral. The building sits in the Henveiru district, close to the fish market, Sultan Park and the National Museum, so it is easy to reach on foot as part of a city walk. It is on the tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage status, which reflects its value as a surviving example of the coral-stone architecture that once defined Maldivian building. Entry and photography rules are set by the religious authorities, so treat this as a living place of worship, not a museum. Even from the outside the craftsmanship is striking, and a quiet look at the carved walls and the cemetery tells you more about island history than any modern building in the city.

Why coral stone: before concrete, Maldivians built with what the reef gave them. Masons cut blocks of living coral from the sea, let them harden in the air and carved them with tools, then fitted them together without much mortar. The Friday Mosque is the finest surviving example. Its walls carry Quranic inscriptions and intricate patterns, and the wooden panels inside show the same skill in a different material. The building has been restored over the years, with the original coral blocks conserved where possible.

Visiting respectfully: the mosque is an active place of worship and sits among a cemetery, so dress modestly, keep your voice low, remove shoes where required and follow the instructions of caretakers. Access for visitors who are not Muslim is controlled by the authorities and varies, so ask at the gate or check with your hotel or guide before you go. Do not enter during prayer times, especially on Friday around midday, when the district is busy with worshippers. Photography may be limited, so ask first.

Fitting it in: the best way to see the mosque is as part of a walk around Henveiru, beginning with the fish market in the early morning, continuing to the mosque while it is quiet, and ending at Sultan Park and the National Museum. The whole circuit takes a morning. If you take the guided Malé walking tour, the mosque is one of its main stops and your guide can explain the history and the rules on the spot. For a deeper look at the carvings, go in the morning when the light is soft and the streets are calm.