In the Maldives, where you sleep decides almost everything you can do, because each island is its own world. There are three broad choices: a private resort island, a guesthouse on a local island and a hotel in Malé or Hulhumalé. Each has a different rhythm, price and set of rules. Here is how to choose, with the five hotels we recommend.
Resort islands: the overwater villa
A resort occupies a whole island, with a house reef, restaurants, a spa and often a dive centre, and you pay for privacy and service. For the splurge, Gili Lankanfushi in the North Malé Atoll is the pick: 45 villas and residences, overwater villas with pools, six dining venues, an Ayurvedic spa and a coral restoration programme, reached by speedboat. For a larger, livelier resort with more choice, Sun Siyam Olhuveli in the South Malé Atoll has a dozen villa categories including water villas, more than 24 restaurants and bars, three spas, a kids club and an SSI dive centre, around 45 minutes by speedboat from the airport. Both suit couples and families who want everything in one place.
The convenient resort: close to the airport
If you want a resort without a long transfer, Niva Kurumba Maldives, formerly Kurumba, is about ten minutes by speedboat from the airport. It has seven restaurants, a PADI dive centre, a spa and a house reef, but no overwater villas on its own page, so it suits families, short stays and first or last nights. It is the best fit for travellers who value an easy arrival over a seclusion premium.
Malé and Hulhumalé: the city base
Staying in the capital puts the Friday Mosque, Sultan Park, the National Museum and the fish market on foot. JEN Maldives Malé by Shangri-La on Ameer Ahmed Magu has 114 rooms, a rooftop terrace and a free airport shuttle listed, and its listing puts Sultan Park about five minutes away on foot. It is the best city hotel for a night or two around a resort stay and for travellers on a layover. Hulhumalé, beside the airport, is quieter, with beaches and guesthouses, and is the jetty for many excursions.
Local islands: the guesthouse
Since 2009, local islands have been able to host guesthouses, which opened the Maldives to smaller budgets. Maafushi in the South Malé Atoll is the best known. Kaani Beach Hotel there has 18 rooms with sea-view and city-view options, buffet meals, an excursions desk and a short walk to the beach. The trade-off is rules: alcohol is not available on local islands, dress is modest away from the bikini beach and the facilities are simple. In return you get a very low price, daily boat trips and real island life.
Choosing quickly
Choose Gili Lankanfushi for a honeymoon or milestone, Sun Siyam Olhuveli for a family holiday with variety, Niva Kurumba for a short or airport-friendly stay, JEN Malé for the capital and Kaani Beach for budget island days. Many travellers combine two: a few nights on Maafushi or in Malé, then a resort for the overwater villa. Whatever you choose, confirm the transfer, check the meal plan and book early for December to April, when the seas are calmest.