Manchester has become one of the best food cities in the north of England, with a mix of traditional northern dishes, the cooking of the many communities who have settled here, and a lively independent scene. It is also very good value compared with London. This guide explains where to look and what to try.
Northern classics
Start with the dishes that locals grew up on. Meat and potato pie, served with gravy and mushy peas, is a staple, as is the Lancashire hotpot, a slow-cooked stew of lamb and potatoes. Black pudding, Eccles cakes, Bury black pudding and the Manchester tart, a jam-and-custard dessert with coconut, are regional favourites. Many pubs serve these dishes, and you will also find them reinterpreted on modern menus in the Northern Quarter.
Chinatown
Manchester’s Chinatown is one of the largest in Britain, centred on Faulkner Street and the streets around the Chinese Arch. It offers a wide range of regional Chinese cooking, from dim sum and Cantonese roast meats to hot pot and Sichuan dishes, and many restaurants serve lunch deals that are good value. It is a short walk from Piccadilly Gardens and the Portland Street hotels, and it is lively late into the evening. Booking is wise for groups at weekends.
The Curry Mile
The stretch of Wilmslow Road in Rusholme, a few miles south of the centre, is known as the Curry Mile and is home to dozens of South Asian restaurants, sweet shops and grills. Pakistani, Indian and Bangladeshi cooking dominate, with kebabs, karahi dishes, biryanis and fresh breads, and many places stay open late. It is easily reached by the buses that run along Oxford Road and Wilmslow Road, and it is an authentic and inexpensive evening out.
The Northern Quarter
This is the creative heart of the city’s food scene. Independent cafes, street food kitchens, ramen bars, vegan restaurants and brunch spots are packed into a few streets, and menus change often. It is a good area for a casual lunch, a long brunch or small plates and drinks in the evening. Coffee is taken seriously, with many roasters and specialists.
Markets and street food
Manchester has several food halls and markets with a variety of stalls under one roof. They suit groups with different tastes and are a quick, flexible option for lunch. Seasonal markets, including the Christmas markets across the centre, offer mulled wine, bratwurst, crepes and local treats.
Pubs and beer
The city has many historic pubs, with real ale, Victorian tiles and snug rooms, and a thriving craft beer scene. Try a pint of local bitter or an IPA from one of the city’s breweries, and look for pubs with food, such as pie and a pint. A craft beer tour in the Northern Quarter gives an introduction to local brewers and bars.
Afternoon tea and fine dining
Hotels such as The Midland and The Edwardian offer afternoon tea, and the city has restaurants with Michelin recognition for those who want a special meal. Book several weeks ahead for weekend tables at the best restaurants.
Food tours
A walking food tour is an efficient way to taste several places in one outing. The Castlefield to Chinatown food tour includes seven tastings and a history of the neighbourhoods, and other operators offer tours of the Northern Quarter and of Stockport. Tell the operator about dietary needs when you book.
Practical tips
Tipping of ten to twelve per cent is customary if a service charge is not added. Kitchens in pubs often stop serving by nine in the evening, while restaurants in Chinatown and the Curry Mile stay open later. Vegetarian and vegan options are widely available, and halal food is easy to find. For the best value, look for lunch menus and early-evening deals, and book popular places in advance at weekends.
Breakfast and brunch
Brunch is a Manchester habit, and the Northern Quarter and Ancoats are full of cafes serving eggs, pastries and strong coffee. A full English breakfast, with bacon, sausage, beans, eggs and black pudding, is the classic start to a big day of sightseeing. Many hotels include breakfast or sell it as an extra, so compare the price with eating out. For a quick bite, bakeries and sandwich shops open early, and the markets offer fresh pastries and hot drinks.