Aquinnah Cliffs and Gay Head Lighthouse

Aquinnah is the Vineyard's far western edge, and the Cliffs are the sight that most first-time visitors put at the top of the list. The clay banks rise roughly a hundred feet or more above the Atlantic in bands of red, ochre, white and gray, and the colors shift through the day as the light moves across them. A short boardwalk-style path leads from the village lot past a small cluster of shops and snack stands to a viewing platform above the cliffs, and from there you can look out toward the Elizabeth Islands and, on a clear evening, watch the sun drop into the water. Gay Head Lighthouse stands on the bluff beside the path. The present brick tower dates from the middle of the nineteenth century and was moved back from the eroding edge in a major engineering project some years ago, a reminder that the cliffs are constantly changing. Aquinnah is also the home of the Aquinnah Wampanoag Tribe, whose name for the place means land under the hill, and the area carries a deep Native history that is worth a moment of attention as you walk. Do not climb the cliffs or remove clay; the banks are fragile and protected, and tides and slumping make the face unsafe. The beach below can be reached by a separate trail from the parking area, and on a warm day the walk down and back is a pleasant half hour. Parking in the village lot is paid in season, and the up-island bus makes a good alternative to driving when the lot is full. The drive from Oak Bluffs or Vineyard Haven takes the better part of an hour on winding two-lane roads, so plan it as a half-day with a stop in Menemsha, which is only a short distance away. In the shoulder seasons the shops close but the view stays the same, and a sunset visit with a jacket is arguably better without the summer crowds.

Plan the visit around the light. Late afternoon into sunset is the classic time, when the clay glows and the lighthouse is silhouetted against the sky, but morning is quieter and the colors look cleaner. If you are driving, arrive an hour before sunset in summer, because the lot fills and the line of cars leaving afterward moves slowly on narrow roads. Bring a layer even in July, since the wind off the water at the tip can be cool, and wear shoes that grip if you plan to walk down to the beach.

The lighthouse itself is managed by the island's historical organizations and opens for tours on a limited seasonal schedule, usually in the warmer months and often timed for sunset. Check the schedule before you count on going inside, and treat the exterior and the grounds as the sure thing. Combine the stop with the Wampanoag-run shops and food stands near the overlook, where seafood, chowder and cold drinks are the usual offering, and pair it with Menemsha for dinner by the harbor.