Phillip Island Penguin Parade

The Penguin Parade on Phillip Island is one of Australia's most famous wildlife experiences, and it lives up to its reputation. Every evening at sunset, little penguins, the smallest penguin species in the world and only about 30 centimetres tall, come ashore in small groups called rafts after a day fishing at sea, then waddle up the beach and across the dunes to their burrows. Phillip Island Nature Parks manages the colony on Summerland Beach, and visitors watch from grandstands and boardwalks that put you within a few metres of the birds as they pass. There are several ways to see them. General Viewing uses large tiered grandstands overlooking the beach and is the most affordable. Penguins Plus offers a closer, smaller stand; Penguins Premium a beachfront stand with a ranger presentation; and the Underground Viewing option puts you at penguin eye level through windows in a bunker. For a more personal experience, guided tours and the Ultimate Adventure Tour take small groups to a secluded beach. All visitors need a ticket, bookings are essential, and the parade happens year-round. Photography of the penguins is not permitted, to protect the birds from flash and disturbance, which turns out to be a gift: you simply watch. The island is about a 90-minute drive from Melbourne, plus around 20 minutes from the bridge to the parade. Most visitors without a car take a day tour, which usually combines the parade with other island stops such as the Koala Conservation Reserve, Churchill Island or a wildlife park. Be prepared for a late return to the city.

Choosing a viewing option depends on budget and how close you want to be. General Viewing is perfectly good, with clear views of the beach and the penguins walking along the boardwalk paths afterwards; the boardwalks are where many visitors get their closest looks. Penguins Plus and Underground Viewing are smaller and closer, and Penguins Premium adds commentary. The guided tours, for teenagers and adults, offer the most intimate encounters. Arrive about an hour before the scheduled time for most options, and half an hour before for Underground Viewing. In December and January, General Viewing seating is limited and not guaranteed, so arriving on time matters even more. The penguins arrive at sunset, so the time shifts through the year, from late in the evening in summer to late afternoon in winter.

Current conditions to know about. Burrow and boardwalk upgrades are under way at the Penguin Parade, but the boardwalks remain open to pedestrians and wheelchairs; the buggy service is out of action during the works, and wheelchairs are available on request. At the Nobbies, the boardwalks and car park are open but the Nobbies Centre, cafe and toilets are closed. The site is cashless, and parking is free. Allow extra travel time between mid-December and late January and on long weekends and school holidays, when traffic to the island is heavy.

Make a day of it. Phillip Island has more to offer than the parade: the Koala Conservation Reserve has treetop boardwalks for spotting koalas, Churchill Island has a historic farm, and the Nobbies boardwalk looks out over a fur seal colony on Seal Rocks. Cowes is the main town, with cafes and a beach, and the island's surf beaches are excellent. A three-parks pass covers the Penguin Parade, koalas and Churchill Island. Bring warm clothes whatever the season: evenings on the beach are windy and cold, even after a hot day. If you only have one night for wildlife and cannot get to the island, the free St Kilda Pier penguin sessions in the city are a smaller alternative.