Queen Victoria Market

The Queen Victoria Market, known to everyone as the Queen Vic or simply Vic Market, has been feeding Melbourne since 1878, and it remains the city's great open-air market and one of the largest in the southern hemisphere. It occupies several hectares on the northern edge of the city centre, a short walk or tram ride up Elizabeth Street, and its long Victorian sheds shelter hundreds of traders. The structure makes it easy to navigate. The fruit and vegetable sheds are a parade of local produce and the shouting of stallholders; the meat and fish hall, with its tiled walls and marble counters, is a working butchers' and fishmongers' hall from another era; and the deli hall, the Dairy Produce Hall, is lined with cheesemongers, charcuterie, olives, breads and pastries. Beyond those are the general merchandise sheds, where you can buy everything from souvenirs and sheepskin boots to clothes and kitchenware. The market is a place to graze rather than to shop seriously if you are a visitor: grab a coffee, try a burek or a cheese and a slice of something cured, then queue for the hot jam doughnuts from the old van that has been frying them for decades. Market trading days are Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday; it is closed on Mondays and Wednesdays, though a seasonal Wednesday night market brings street food, music and stalls in the warmer months. The market is closed on public holidays such as Melbourne Cup Day. A long-running renewal programme is upgrading the sheds and surrounds, so expect some works and changes around the edges.

Timing is everything. The market opens at 6am on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays and closes at 3pm; on Saturday it runs from 6am to 4pm, and on Sunday from 9am to 4pm. Specialty shops open from 9am. Early mornings are when locals shop and the produce is freshest, while the last hour of trading on Saturday can bring bargains as traders clear their stock. For a visitor, mid-morning is the sweet spot: everything is open, the cafes are busy and the doughnut queue is still manageable. Avoid arriving in the last hour on a weekday if you want to see the market at full strength.

The night market is a different experience. On Wednesday evenings in the warmer months (and in a winter edition in some years), the market fills with food trucks and stalls cooking dishes from around the world, along with bars, live music and craft stalls. It is busy, cheerful and good value, and it suits couples and families alike. Check the official website for the current season's dates. Food tours and cooking classes also run at the market and are a good way to meet traders and learn about produce.

Some practical points. The market is in the middle of a long-term renewal led by the City of Melbourne, which includes restoring heritage sheds, new public space and changes to car parking and nearby streets. Some areas may be fenced off and access routes can change, so follow the signs. Parking is available in the market's car parks off Queen Street, but trams along Elizabeth Street and William Street are easier. Cash is no longer essential, as most traders take cards. If you are cooking in an apartment, this is the place to stock up; if not, bring an appetite and a little patience for the crowds, and plan a visit on a day the market actually trades.