Fornells and Cavalleria

Fornells is the north coast's best-loved village. It sits on the edge of one of the island's largest natural bays, a wide, shallow sheet of water protected by a low headland, and it has kept the look of a small fishing port: low whitewashed houses, boats pulled up on a slipway, a short promenade and a handful of restaurants with tables on the quay. On a calm morning the water is glassy, and the village feels a long way from the busy resorts on the south coast. Fornells is the home of caldereta de llagosta, a rich lobster stew cooked slowly with onions, tomatoes, garlic and herbs and served in a deep dish. Chefs here have made the dish famous across Spain, and it is a regular fixture of celebratory lunches. It is expensive, but it is the signature of the village, and many visitors treat it as a once-per-trip splurge. If lobster is out of budget, the bay also provides fish, shellfish and rice dishes. Above the village on the headland stands the Torre de Fornells, a round stone watchtower built by the British at the start of the nineteenth century to guard the bay. It is a short walk from the village, and the views along the coast are worth the effort. The bay itself is a centre for watersports, particularly windsurfing and sailing, since the winds funnel steadily across it.

A short drive west brings you to the Cap de Cavalleria, the northernmost point of the island. The road ends at a lighthouse perched on a high cliff, with a vast view over the sea and a rugged landscape of red earth, grey rock, low scrub and nesting seabirds. The wind here is often strong, and the atmosphere is wild and exposed. A small museum nearby covers the area's history, and walking trails lead along the cliffs.

Close to the cape are the ruins of Sanitja, an ancient harbour used by the Romans, with a sheltered inlet that once handled trade. The cove and the remains of the port are quiet and atmospheric, and the walk to them gives a feel for how the island fitted into Mediterranean trade routes. Beyond that, the red-sand beaches of Pregonda and Binimel-la sit along the coast, reached by tracks and paths.

Practical details are easy. Fornells is about forty minutes from Mahon and Ciutadella by road, and parking is at the edge of the village. Restaurants fill at lunchtime in summer, so book a table for caldereta ahead of time. Visit the cape in the late afternoon for softer light, but take a windproof jacket even in summer, because the exposure is serious.

A good plan is a morning stroll around Fornells and up to the tower, lunch on the quay, an afternoon drive to the cape and the Roman cove, and a swim at a nearby beach. Alternatively, join a boat trip from the village to see the north coast from the water, and return for dinner.

The area is also a gateway to the Cami de Cavalls, with signed sections leading from the village in both directions. A short stretch along the bay is an easy walk for families, while longer stages head toward the cape. Birdwatchers will find interest in the bay and cliffs, particularly in spring and autumn.

Together, Fornells and Cavalleria give a compact picture of the north: a sheltered harbour, a serious sea, and a coastline that rewards slow exploration.