Corso Magenta / Santa Maria delle Grazie

Antica Locanda Leonardo

★★★★★

Antica Locanda Leonardo is the hotel for travellers whose Milan revolves around the Last Supper. It sits on Corso Magenta, one of the most elegant residential streets in the city, in a nineteenth-century building set back from the road around a quiet internal courtyard, and Santa Maria delle Grazie is roughly a hundred to a hundred and fifty metres away, a two-minute walk from reception. That makes it possible to walk over for an early time slot without stress and to come back for a coffee afterwards. The hotel is small, with 24 rooms and two apartments spread between the main building and an adjoining villa connected by a garden, and it is family-run, which shows in the welcoming, personal service and the advice on restaurants and sights. Rooms are classic and comfortable rather than designer, with traditional furniture and touches of character; some look onto the garden. A buffet breakfast is served each morning, included in bed-and-breakfast rates or available for a small supplement. The neighbourhood is excellent for sightseeing: San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore, the Basilica of Sant'Ambrogio, the Science and Technology Museum and the Sforza Castle are all within walking distance, and the Conciliazione and Cadorna metro stops are close. It is a quieter, more residential corner of the centre than the Duomo area, which many visitors prefer in the evening.

What sets it apart: the courtyard and garden, which make the hotel feel like a retreat in a busy city, and the family management, which gives the stay a personal touch that chain hotels cannot match. The building's age means some rooms are compact and layouts vary, which is part of the charm.

Room tips: ask for a room facing the courtyard or garden for the quietest stay. Families and longer stays should consider the apartments. Book well ahead for spring and autumn weekends, as the hotel is small and popular with returning guests. Around the hotel, Corso Magenta has some of the city's most elegant cafes and pastry shops, and the streets toward Sant'Ambrogio are full of neighbourhood trattorias where Milanese families eat, a welcome change from the tourist menus around the Duomo. Book your Last Supper slot before you book the room, since tickets are the scarcer resource.

Practicals: Corso Magenta 78, about two minutes on foot from Santa Maria delle Grazie and near the Conciliazione (M1) and Cadorna (M1, M2, Malpensa Express) stations. Fit: first-time visitors, art lovers and couples on a moderate budget who want the Last Supper on their doorstep.