Duomo / Cordusio

Hotel Spadari al Duomo

★★★★★

The Hotel Spadari al Duomo is a small, personal hotel in the very centre of Milan, and it has a loyal following among visitors who return year after year. It stands on Via Spadari, a short street of historic food shops just west of the Piazza del Duomo, a couple of minutes' walk from the Duomo metro station and about six minutes from both the cathedral and La Scala. The hotel describes itself as one of the first art and design hotels in Italy: when the family transformed an older hotel into the Spadari, they filled it with contemporary art, design furniture, fine linens, porcelain and plants, and that personal, collected feel remains its signature. It is run by the Spadari family; the siblings Piero, Margherita and Matteo took over from their grandfather, and their mother and her partner shaped the hotel's style, so the welcome is warm and the recommendations genuinely local. The rooms come in a range of categories, from a single room and classic doubles up to a two-storey suite, and all have the essentials: air conditioning, flat-screen television, minibar with soft drinks and free Wi-Fi. A generous buffet breakfast is included in the rate, which is good value in this part of the city, and the reception is open around the clock. Facilities are those of a small boutique hotel rather than a resort, with no spa or restaurant, but the location means you will hardly need them. Via Spadari itself is one of the best food streets in the centre: the famous Peck delicatessen, a temple of Milanese gastronomy, is on the corner, and the surrounding lanes are full of cafes and trattorias.

The location is excellent for sightseeing on foot. The Duomo, the Galleria and La Scala are all within a few minutes, the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana is around the corner and the Last Supper and the Sforza Castle are a pleasant walk away. The Duomo metro station connects you quickly to Centrale for trains to Lake Como and Bergamo. Via Spadari is quieter than the streets around the cathedral square, especially in the evening, which makes for better sleep than many central hotels.

Living in it: think of the Spadari as a comfortable, characterful home in the centre rather than a full-service hotel. Rooms are not large, as is typical of central Milan, but they are well kept and individual, with art on the walls. The included breakfast is a highlight and saves money compared with eating out every morning. The staff are known for their helpfulness with restaurant suggestions and booking advice, including tips for the Last Supper. Book early for fashion weeks and Design Week, when the hotel fills quickly.

Who it suits: couples, solo travellers and culture-focused visitors who value location, personality and breakfast over big-hotel facilities. It is a good mid-to-upper-range choice in the historic centre. For a bolder, more contemporary design statement nearby, Room Mate Giulia is on the other side of the Duomo; for full luxury, the Park Hyatt.