Tortona / Navigli

Magna Pars Hotel a Parfum

★★★★★

Magna Pars is one of Milan's most original hotels, and it is perfect for travellers who want to stay in the creative south-west of the city rather than the historic centre. It occupies the former headquarters and factory of Marvin, a cosmetics and pharmaceutical company, between Via Tortona and Via Forcella near Porta Genova, and the family who owned the business, the Martones, transformed it into an hotel built around the theme of scent. There are 68 suites, each named after a fragrance note, whether floral, woody, fruity or spicy, and each with its own scent; the rooms are spacious, light and contemporary, many opening onto the garden or terraces. Scent runs through everything, from the welcome to the toiletries to LabSolue, the hotel's perfume laboratory, where guests and visitors can explore fragrance and take part in olfactory experiences. The hotel's Secret Gardens are a green refuge, planted with bergamot, jasmine, olive trees and aromatic herbs, which is a rare luxury in Milan. There are two dining venues: Da Noi In, the restaurant, and Liquidambar, the bar and bistro, which spills out onto the garden in good weather. The hotel is a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, and the service has the personal touch you would expect from a family-owned property. The neighbourhood is the Tortona design district, Milan's centre of creative industries, fashion studios and photography spaces, which becomes the epicentre of Design Week every April. The Navigli canals, with their aperitivo bars and restaurants, are a few minutes' walk away.

The location suits visitors who have seen the main sights before or who want a livelier, more creative base. The Porta Genova station on the green metro line M2 is a few minutes' walk away, with direct trains to Cadorna and the centre, and from there the Duomo is about fifteen minutes by metro. The Navigli and the Darsena are on the doorstep for evening aperitivo, the MUDEC museum of cultures and the design showrooms of Via Tortona are nearby, and the Fondazione Prada is a short taxi ride. Staying here, you see the Milan of studios and terraces rather than tour groups.

Living in it: the all-suite format means more space than most Milan hotels, which matters on longer stays. The garden is a lovely place for breakfast and drinks in warm weather. The perfume concept is woven through the hotel without being overwhelming, and the LabSolue experiences are worth booking for a different kind of souvenir. During Design Week in April and the fashion weeks, the area is packed with events, and the hotel is in great demand, so book early or avoid those dates if you want calm.

Who it suits: couples, design and fashion professionals, return visitors and anyone who prefers a boutique luxury hotel with a strong personality to a classic grand hotel. Rates are high but lower than the top hotels in the centre. For a central luxury alternative, look at the Park Hyatt or the Grand Hotel et de Milan; for a budget base nearer the Navigli, Ostello Bello Milano Duomo.