Navigli / Naviglio Grande

Hotel Maison Borella

★★★★★

Maison Borella is the hotel for people who want to wake up on the Navigli. It stands on the Alzaia Naviglio Grande, the towpath of Milan's oldest surviving canal, and describes itself as the only hotel overlooking the Navigli, which makes it the most atmospheric base in the canal district. The building is a traditional Milanese balcony-house, the type of courtyard tenement with long open galleries that once housed the city's working families, carefully restored under the supervision of the heritage authorities. Rooms open around the internal courtyard, wrapped by the old iron-railed balconies, and are decorated in a warm, romantic style with wooden beams in some rooms, rich fabrics and antique touches. Breakfast is a highlight, with Italian pastries, homemade jams, breads and proper espresso, served in the winter garden or facing the canal, and in the evening the veranda is used for aperitifs before dinner in the hotel's restaurant. Outside, the Naviglio Grande is lined with bars, trattorias, galleries and craft workshops, the Darsena basin is a few minutes' walk away, and the monthly antiques market spreads along the towpath on many Sundays. MUDEC, Armani/Silos and the Tortona design district are about ten minutes on foot, and the Porta Genova station on metro line M2 puts the Duomo within a short ride. The flip side of the location is noise: the Navigli are lively late into the night, especially on weekends.

What sets it apart: the canal-side position and the courtyard architecture, which combine Milanese history with the most social neighbourhood in the city. It is especially popular with couples and with visitors who want to spend their evenings by the water rather than in the business centre.

Room tips: courtyard-facing rooms are the quietest; canal-facing rooms have the views but also the evening buzz. Ask about rooms with beams or balconies for extra character. Book ahead for weekends and for Design Week, when the Tortona district next door is the centre of the action. Staying on the canal also changes how you experience the city: early mornings on the towpath are quiet and atmospheric, the Darsena basin is perfect for a run or a coffee, and in the evening you can join the aperitivo crowd without worrying about getting home. Check whether the antiques market falls during your stay.

Practicals: Alzaia Naviglio Grande, about ten minutes' walk from Porta Genova station (M2) and a short tram or metro ride from the Duomo. Fit: couples, design and fashion visitors heading to Tortona, and anyone who wants the Navigli on their doorstep.