Little Italy

Little Italy is where Montreal's large Italian community put down roots in the early twentieth century, and it remains one of the most enjoyable neighbourhoods in the city for eating and strolling. It lies north of the Plateau and Mile End, bounded by Rue Bellechasse to the south, Rue Jean-Talon to the north, Boulevard Saint-Laurent to the west and Rue Saint-Denis to the east, with Saint-Laurent as its lively main street. Its biggest attraction is Jean-Talon Market, one of the largest and best four-season public markets in North America, on the neighbourhood's northern edge. Along Saint-Laurent and the side streets you find old-school espresso bars, where locals stand at the counter for a quick coffee and watch football on television, Italian bakeries selling cannoli and sfogliatelle, pizzerias, butchers, cheese shops and delicatessens importing products from Italy, alongside newer restaurants and wine bars. The church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Defense, built by the Italian community and decorated by the painter Guido Nincheri, is known for a fresco painted in the 1930s that depicts Mussolini on horseback, an image that remains a striking piece of history. Every August, ItalFestMTL celebrates the neighbourhood's Italian heritage with food, music and events on the streets. There is no admission, and the area is easy to explore on foot in a couple of hours, especially combined with lunch at the market.

Why go: Little Italy offers an authentic, lived-in Montreal neighbourhood, where families have run the same shops for generations and the cafe culture is part of daily life. It is also the natural extension of a visit to Jean-Talon Market, and the combination of market, espresso and pastry is one of the best food experiences in the city. The streets are calmer than the downtown core and full of small details, from the decorated balconies to the corner bocce games in the park.

How to visit well: start at Jean-Talon Market in the morning, then walk south on Saint-Laurent for an espresso at one of the classic cafes and a pastry at an Italian bakery. Visit Notre-Dame-de-la-Defense to see the Nincheri frescoes; be respectful if a service is underway. Continue to the delis and specialty shops for edible souvenirs such as olive oil, cured meats and cheeses. In August, time your visit for ItalFestMTL. In winter, the market moves indoors and the cafes are especially welcoming.

Practicals: Jean-Talon, De Castelnau and Beaubien metro stations all serve the neighbourhood, and bus 55 runs along Boulevard Saint-Laurent. From the Plateau and Mile End, it is an easy walk north. Combine it with Mile End's bagel bakeries for a full afternoon of eating your way through the city. A sensible route is to start at the market, walk south along Saint-Laurent and Rue Dante past the church and the small park beside it, then continue along Boulevard Saint-Laurent to the Plateau. Most shops and cafes open early and close in the early evening, while restaurants keep later hours. Prices are reasonable compared with downtown, and many places welcome children. If you are visiting in winter, the indoor section of the market and the warm cafes make the neighbourhood just as rewarding, even if the street life is quieter.