Mary, Queen of the World Cathedral

Mary, Queen of the World Cathedral is one of the most surprising sights in downtown Montreal: a reduced-scale replica of St. Peter's Basilica in Rome, standing among glass office towers on Boulevard Rene-Levesque, across from the Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth hotel. Built at the end of the nineteenth century, it was the project of Bishop Ignace Bourget, who wanted the seat of the Catholic diocese to express loyalty to Rome and to stand in the heart of what was then the English-speaking, Protestant part of the city. Construction began in 1875 and took almost two decades. The church is laid out as a Latin cross covering nearly 4,700 square metres, and its dome and facade, topped by a row of statues of saints, echo St. Peter's at roughly a third of the size. Inside, the highlight is the gilded baroque revival baldachin over the main altar, a copy of Bernini's canopy in Rome, along with paintings depicting the history of the diocese, chapels and rich decoration. Entry is free, and the calm interior is a welcome break from the downtown bustle and the shopping streets nearby. Masses are celebrated regularly, so visitors should be discreet. Visiting hours are not widely published, so call ahead or check with the cathedral, especially on Sundays and religious holidays.

Why go: Montreal has an extraordinary number of churches, but this cathedral stands out for its ambition and its unlikely location. Seeing a version of St. Peter's surrounded by skyscrapers is a visual reminder of the city's history of religious and linguistic rivalry, and the interior is impressive in its own right. It is also free and right in the centre of downtown, so it fits easily into any itinerary.

How to visit well: allow twenty to thirty minutes. Stand back across Boulevard Rene-Levesque or in Place du Canada for the best view of the dome against the towers. Inside, walk up to the baldachin and look up into the dome. If you have seen Notre-Dame Basilica in Old Montreal, the contrast between the two styles is striking: Gothic Revival blue and gold there, Roman baroque here. Combine the visit with the Underground City, which runs beneath the surrounding blocks, and with the historic Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth across the street.

Practicals: the cathedral's address is 1085 Rue de la Cathedrale, downtown, close to Bonaventure and Peel metro stations on the orange and green lines. Admission is free; donations are welcome. Visiting hours vary, and the cathedral can be contacted at 514 866-1661. Dress respectfully and keep noise down, as it is an active place of worship. Photography without flash is generally accepted outside services, but be discreet. The cathedral can be busy around Christmas and Easter, when special services draw large congregations, and these are also beautiful times to hear the organ and choir. In winter, the underground passages between Place Bonaventure, Central Station and the nearby office towers let you reach the area without spending long outside. A short walk west brings you to Dorchester Square and Place du Canada, two green squares framed by historic buildings, and to the start of Rue Sainte-Catherine's shopping streets.