Frauenkirche (Cathedral of Our Lady)

The two towers of the Frauenkirche, crowned with their green copper domes, are the symbol of Munich, and by local custom no building in the centre may rise above them. The cathedral is a short walk from Marienplatz, and entry is free. A church dedicated to Our Lady stood here by 1271, and the present building, a huge late-Gothic hall church in red brick, was begun in 1468 and completed in just twenty years by the master builder Joerg von Halspach. The towers, which reach just under 99 metres, received their distinctive domes, the so-called Welsche Hauben, around 1525, probably inspired by descriptions of the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem, and became a model for onion domes across Bavaria. In 1821 the church became the cathedral of the new Archdiocese of Munich and Freising. In the Second World War the roof collapsed and the interior burned, though the towers survived, and the church was rebuilt in a deliberately plain style, so the interior today is bright and spacious, with tall white columns and modern windows alongside surviving medieval glass. The best-known curiosity is the Teufelstritt, the devil's footprint, in the entrance hall: legend says the devil stamped here in triumph when, from this spot, the pillars hide every window and the church seemed to have none. Inside, look for the black marble cenotaph of Emperor Ludwig the Bavarian, made in the early seventeenth century by Hans Krumper, and the crypt below, where members of the Wittelsbach family and the archbishops are buried. The south tower reopened to visitors in March 2022 after around ten years behind scaffolding. You climb about ninety steps up a narrow spiral staircase and then take a lift to the viewing platform, with views over the roofs of the old town and, on clear days, to the Alps. Tower tickets cost a few euros and can be bought at the cathedral shop or online through Munich Tourism.

How to plan your visit: the cathedral opens daily from 8am to 8pm, and you can visit freely except during services. Mass is held several times a day, so step quietly and avoid wandering during worship. Start in the entrance hall with the devil's footprint, walk the nave to the choir and Ludwig the Bavarian's monument, then climb the south tower. Tower visits run from 10am to 5pm Monday to Saturday and from 11.30am on Sundays and public holidays, with last ascent at 4.30pm. The staircase is one-way and narrow, and the climb is not wheelchair accessible. The tower may close at short notice for special occasions.

When to go: mornings on weekdays are quietest. Clear days, especially in autumn and winter when the air is crisp, give the best chance of seeing the Alps from the tower. During the Christmas markets the cathedral is a peaceful refuge from the crowds on Marienplatz, and organ concerts and choral services are a beautiful way to experience the building.

How it compares: the Frauenkirche is the landmark, but its rebuilt interior is restrained. For baroque splendour, visit the Asamkirche or St Michael's, and for the best city view, St Peter's tower, which looks straight at the Frauenkirche's domes, is a strong alternative. Ideally, do both towers: St Peter's gives you the classic view of the Frauenkirche, and the Frauenkirche tower gives you height and the view of Marienplatz from above.