Muscat is a city that rewards a slower pace. There are no record-breaking towers here, just a long, low, white city between the mountains and the sea, with a magnificent mosque, a lively old souq, a handful of excellent museums and, within a couple of hours, some of the most beautiful landscapes in Arabia. Here is how to shape a first visit.
When to go
The cool season, roughly October to April, is the time to come. Days are warm and sunny, evenings are pleasant on the corniche, and the desert and the wadis are comfortable. Experience Oman recommends September to May for the city and the wadis and September to April for the desert. From late spring through the summer the heat is intense, and life moves indoors and into the evenings. Late November brings National Day celebrations, and the winter holidays are the busiest time for hotels, so book early.
How many days
Two full days cover the Grand Mosque, the Royal Opera House, Old Muscat and Mutrah Souq. Three days let you add a dolphin trip or a relaxed beach day. Four or five days give you time for the classic day trips: Wadi Shab on the coast, Nizwa in the interior and the Wahiba Sands, ideally with a night in a desert camp.
The rule that shapes your trip
The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is open to non-Muslim visitors only on Saturday to Thursday mornings, from about 8 or 8:30am until 11am, and not at all on Friday. Make it the first thing you do on your first weekday morning. Experience Oman lists a visitor fee of 8 rials. Cover shoulders and knees with loose clothing, and women must also cover their hair; abayas and scarves are available at the entrance, but bringing your own is easier.
Watch the closing days
Friday is the quiet day in Oman. Bait Al Zubair is closed on Friday, the National Museum opens only in the afternoon, and Mutrah Souq is sleepy until the evening. Many shops close for a long break in the early afternoon. Use Friday for a day trip, a dolphin cruise or the beach.
What to book ahead
Guided day trips to Wadi Shab, Nizwa and the Wahiba Sands are best booked a few days in advance through a licensed operator or your hotel, and desert camps fill up in the peak season. The Royal Opera House tour depends on the auditorium being free, so contact the tours team before you go, and buy performance tickets early. Dolphin trips can usually be booked a day or two ahead. The mosque, the souq and the museums need no advance booking.
Getting around
Muscat stretches for around fifty kilometres along the coast, and walking between districts is not practical. Taxis are the easiest option: use one of the taxi apps listed on Experience Oman, or ask your hotel to call one, and agree the fare first if the taxi has no meter. Mwasalat runs public buses, which are cheap but slower. The Big Bus City Tour is useful for a first-day overview, but its hop-on hop-off service only runs when cruise ships are in port. For day trips, a rental car gives you freedom, as roads are excellent and well signed, but leave dune driving and rough wadi tracks to professionals.
Where the sights fit
Think of the city in three parts. In the west, near the airport, are the Grand Mosque and the beach hotels of Al Ghubrah. In the middle, Qurum has the Royal Opera House, the beach and a choice of hotels and cafés. In the east, Mutrah and Old Muscat hold the souq, the corniche, the National Museum, Bait Al Zubair and Al Alam Palace. A sensible plan is one day in the west and middle, one day in the east, and the rest for day trips.
A simple plan
Day one: the Grand Mosque in the early morning, lunch in Qurum and an afternoon tour of the Royal Opera House. Day two: the National Museum and Bait Al Zubair in Old Muscat, a look at Al Alam Palace, then sunset on the Mutrah Corniche and dinner near the souq. Day three: a morning dolphin cruise and an afternoon on the beach. Day four: Wadi Shab. Day five: Nizwa Fort and its souq, or an overnight trip to the Wahiba Sands.
Customs and manners
Oman is friendly, safe and conservative. Dress modestly in public places, with shoulders and knees covered, and swim in modest clothing in the wadis. Public displays of affection are frowned upon, and alcohol is served only in licensed hotels and restaurants. The weekend is Friday and Saturday. The currency is the Omani rial, one of the strongest in the world, so check prices carefully; cards are widely accepted, but carry cash for the souq. Many nationalities can get a visa online or enter visa-free for short stays, but check the official visa page for your passport before you travel.