Gillette Castle State Park

Gillette Castle is one of the most unusual homes in America. Built between 1914 and 1919 by the actor William Gillette, who became famous for playing Sherlock Holmes on stage, the twenty-four-room fieldstone mansion sits on a ridge above the Connecticut River in East Haddam. Gillette designed the building himself, filling it with secret mirrors, puzzle locks and hand-carved wooden doors, and even laid out a small railroad on the grounds. Now a Connecticut state park, the property offers house tours, trails and some of the best river views in the state. It is a short drive across the river from Essex, which makes it a natural companion to a steam train outing.

Inside, the castle feels like a stage set built by a theatrical mind. Oak beams, stone arches and custom furniture create a medieval mood, while the owner's love of mechanisms appears in locks and sliding panels that visitors can often see demonstrated. A built-in table on rails, secret passages and a mirror positioned to let him watch guests from his bedroom reveal a man who enjoyed surprising people. The tour is self-guided during open periods, with interpretive signs, and the interior is open seasonally, so check dates before you plan.

The grounds are open year-round and are worth a visit even when the castle is closed. Trails run through the woods to overlooks above the river, and picnic areas make the park a good lunch stop. The park's old railroad bed forms part of the pathways, and the views toward the Goodspeed Opera House and the hills across the water are beautiful in fall.

A nearby small ferry crosses the river between Chester and Hadlyme, and has done so since the eighteenth century, which makes for a charming extra if you want to loop back toward Essex.

Plan an hour or two for the castle and the viewpoint, and longer if you hike. Weekends in October are busy, thanks to the foliage, so arrive early or visit on a weekday. The stairs inside are steep, and some areas are not accessible, but the grounds offer easier walking.

Combine the visit with the Essex Steam Train, which has a stop nearby, or with lunch in a river town. If you have children, bring them for the whimsy: the secret doors and the eccentric setting spark curiosity, and the open lawns allow them to run.

Visitors interested in the man behind the castle will enjoy the story of William Gillette's career, which stretched from the stage to early film, and of how he fell in love with the Connecticut River landscape and decided to build a home worthy of his imagination. After his death in 1937, he left instructions that the property should not fall into the hands of what he called some blithering saphead, and the state acquired it a few years later.

The castle was later restored, and today it welcomes visitors who come to marvel at its eccentric details. Bring a picnic lunch to enjoy at the overlook, and allow extra time on busy autumn weekends.

The ridge on which the castle stands is made of the Seven Sisters hills, and a network of trails explores the woods in a loop that is manageable for most walkers. Pack water and insect repellent in warm months, and keep dogs on leashes where required. In winter, snow on the hills can make the setting magical, but check the park's website for closures and road conditions before driving out.