Hess Persson Estates

Hess Persson Estates, long known as The Hess Collection, is the winery to choose when you want a break from the valley floor and something to look at besides vines. It sits up Redwood Road in the Mayacamas Mountains on Mount Veeder, a winding drive of about twenty minutes from downtown Napa that climbs through oak and redwood into a cooler, quieter world. The estate was built by Swiss entrepreneur Donald Hess, who planted mountain vineyards here and in 1989 opened the historic stone winery building to visitors along with a museum of his contemporary art collection, displayed over several floors with windows looking into the working cellars. The winery is now run by the next generation of the family under the Hess Persson name, and the wines focus on Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon and other mountain reds with firm structure, alongside Chardonnay and whites from cooler sites. Visits run Thursday through Monday. The Bar Tasting is a flight of four wines at the bar; the Estate Tasting adds a guided look at the historic property, the art collection and the Lions Head Cellar; the Reserve Estate Tasting is seated, with reserve wines culminating in the estate Cabernet; and the ATV Vineyard Tour drives you through the steep mountain blocks before a seated reserve tasting. One important caveat for late 2026: the galleries are being refreshed and access to the museum is limited through the end of the year, so confirm what you will see when booking. All guests must be 21 or over, and the road is no place for a tipsy driver.

Why go up the mountain. Mount Veeder is one of Napa's steepest and coolest growing areas, with thin volcanic soils and a long growing season, and Hess was among the producers who showed what its Cabernet could do. The setting matters too: after the traffic of Highway 29, the estate feels like a retreat, with stone walls, gardens and mountain air, and it is often noticeably cooler than the valley in summer. When the galleries are fully open, the art is a genuine highlight, large-scale contemporary works chosen by one collector over decades, displayed in spare white rooms that open onto views of barrels and tanks.

Choosing an experience. The Estate Tasting is the best all-round choice if it includes gallery access during your visit; ask when you book. Wine-focused visitors should go for the Reserve Estate Tasting, which is seated and unhurried. The ATV Vineyard Tour is the most adventurous tasting in the region, a guided ride through the steep vineyard blocks that runs year-round when conditions allow, followed by a seated reserve flight. Groups of five or more should contact the concierge. Reservations are recommended, though walk-ins may be possible at the bar.

Practicals. The winery is open Thursday to Monday, closed Tuesday and Wednesday, with the last service in mid-afternoon. Weather on the mountain changes quickly, so bring a sweater, sun protection and sturdy shoes. Redwood Road is narrow and curving, so plan a designated driver or car service, and combine Hess with downtown Napa rather than with a long valley itinerary. Pets are not allowed except service dogs.