Naples Lungomare and Borgo Marinari

The Lungomare is where Naples comes to breathe. After the dense, noisy lanes of the historic centre, the waterfront opens out into a broad promenade along the curve of the bay, with Vesuvius on the horizon, Capri floating in the haze and the Sorrento peninsula stretching out to the south. The classic walk runs about three kilometres from Mergellina, the small port at the foot of Posillipo hill, along Via Caracciolo and Via Partenope, past the long green strip of the Villa Comunale park, to Castel dell'Ovo, the oldest castle in the city, standing on its islet of tuff. Much of the seafront has been closed to traffic since the early 2010s, so the walk is relaxed: joggers, cyclists, families with buggies, couples, fishermen casting from the rocks and, on summer days, Neapolitans sunbathing on the breakwaters. Along the way, the Villa Comunale holds statues, fountains and the historic building of the Anton Dohrn Zoological Station, one of the oldest marine research institutes in the world, and the elegant Chiaia district runs just inland. At the end, the causeway leads to Borgo Marinari, the tiny fishermen's harbour tucked against the castle walls, now lined with seafood restaurants, bars and moored boats. It is the city's favourite place for an evening drink and dinner by the water. Castel dell'Ovo itself has been closed for restoration works, so check its status before planning a visit inside; the walk and the Borgo remain open. From Via Partenope, the Monte Echia lift and steps climb to a belvedere over the bay. Fit: everyone, especially couples at sunset, families who need space, foodies after seafood and pizza, and first-timers who want the postcard view of Vesuvius.

The history: Neapolitans have walked this shore for centuries, and the line of grand hotels along Via Partenope dates from the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, when Naples was a fixture of European travel. The legend of Castel dell'Ovo says the poet Virgil hid a magic egg in its foundations, and that if it ever breaks, disaster will strike the city, which is one reason Neapolitans watch restoration work there with interest.

How to do it well: walk from Mergellina toward the castle in the late afternoon so the light falls on Vesuvius and the city, stop at the Mergellina kiosks and chalets for a coffee or a snack, and arrive at Borgo Marinari around sunset. Alternatively, do it as an early-morning walk or run when the bay is calm. Eat in the Borgo for the setting, or walk back into Chiaia for more choice. In summer the breakwaters fill with swimmers; in winter, the promenade is at its clearest after a north wind.

Practicals: the walk is free and flat. Mergellina has a station on metro Line 2; the castle end is a short walk from Piazza del Plebiscito and the Royal Palace. The grand seafront hotels, including the Grand Hotel Vesuvio and the Eurostars Hotel Excelsior, line Via Partenope. Combine with the Galleria Borbonica tunnel and the Royal Palace, or continue west from Mergellina by bus to the Posillipo coast and the Gaiola underwater park.