Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat Coastal Paths

Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is the Riviera's most exclusive peninsula, a green finger of land covered in pines and hidden villas between Villefranche and Beaulieu, and its coastal paths are one of the great free pleasures of the coast. French law guarantees public access to the shoreline, so while the estates stay behind their walls, the paths run between them and the sea. The best short loop circles the Pointe Saint-Hospice, east of the village and port of Saint-Jean. It begins in a maritime pine forest, reaches the Pointe du Colombier, where sea spray has carved the limestone into strange shapes, and offers a short detour up to the top of the point: the little Saint-Hospice chapel, a huge bronze Virgin set up in 1903, a Belgian military cemetery from the First World War and a cemetery by the sea. The path then rounds the tip of the peninsula with views across the water to Cap Martin, Monaco and, on clear days, Italy, passes the cove of the Anse de la Scaletta and climbs steps back to the road, finishing through the Jardin de la Paix. Interpretation boards along the way explain the natural and human history. A second classic walk, the flat Promenade Maurice Rouvier, links Beaulieu-sur-Mer to the port of Saint-Jean along the water, past the gardens of grand villas. Energetic walkers can also follow the longer path around the southern tip by the lighthouse, rockier and wilder. All are free, open year round, and best on calm, clear days, because the paths close when storms and high seas make them dangerous.

Planning the walk: the Pointe Saint-Hospice loop takes around an hour at an easy pace, plus twenty minutes for the detour to the chapel and cemetery. Combine it with the Promenade Maurice Rouvier from Beaulieu (about half an hour each way) for a half-day that starts and ends at a railway station. The longer circuit of the whole cape adds two to three hours and involves uneven rocky sections and steps. None of the paths are suitable for wheelchairs or strollers, and in places the rock is polished and slippery when wet, so wear proper shoes. Dogs on a lead are welcome.

When to go: these paths are perfect in winter and spring, when the air is clear and the light is soft; in summer, start early because shade is limited on the exposed sections, and carry plenty of water. Swimming from the rocks in the coves is a summer joy, but beware of swell. Sections can be closed after storms or for repairs; respect barriers and check with the tourist office if the weather has been rough.

Getting there and combining: take the train to Beaulieu-sur-Mer, or a bus from Nice to Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. The port of Saint-Jean has cafés and restaurants for lunch. Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild sits on the isthmus of the peninsula and makes a perfect pairing (remember its winter weekday afternoon hours), as does Villa Kérylos in Beaulieu. With a coastal walk, a great villa and lunch by a harbour, Cap Ferrat gives the most complete Riviera day you can have without a car.