Gorges du Verdon Day Trip

The Gorges du Verdon are the most dramatic landscape within a day of the Riviera, and for many visitors the highlight of a trip to the south of France. The Verdon river has cut a canyon some twenty-five kilometres long through the limestone plateau of Haute-Provence, with walls reaching several hundred metres in places and water of an extraordinary milky turquoise, coloured by fine mineral particles. Roads run along both rims, with viewpoints that hang over the void, and at the canyon's western mouth the river spills into the great artificial Lac de Sainte-Croix, where in summer people rent pedal boats and kayaks to paddle into the lower gorge. Nearby, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, one of the most beautiful villages in France, climbs a cleft in the cliffs beneath a golden star hung on a chain between two rock faces, and is famous for its painted faience pottery. North-west of the canyon lies the Valensole plateau, whose lavender fields are the classic postcard of Provence when they bloom, roughly from late June to late July. The drive from Nice takes around two and a half hours each way on winding roads, which is why a guided day trip makes sense: someone else drives, and you see more. The bookable tour from Nice runs about nine hours in a small group with a multilingual guide. Outside the lavender season the focus shifts to the canyon itself, the lake and the villages, and the clear light of autumn and spring is ideal for photographs.

Is it worth it in winter? Yes, with caveats. The canyon is magnificent in any clear weather and far less crowded than in summer, but days are short, some high roads can close or be slowed by ice and snow, and boat rentals on the lake are a summer activity. The lavender fields are cut by early August and bare from autumn to spring, so do not book in winter expecting purple fields, whatever the product name suggests. Check the tour's itinerary and inclusions before booking, dress warmly in layers, and expect a long day with a lot of time on the road.

What a classic circuit includes: most tours from Nice head west through the hills, stop at viewpoints on one of the rim roads, visit the Lac de Sainte-Croix at the canyon mouth, and give an hour or so in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie for lunch and a walk up to the chapel beneath the star. In summer, some itineraries detour across the Valensole plateau for the lavender. Bring a snack and water, a camera with a wide lens and comfortable shoes for the village slopes. People prone to car sickness should sit near the front: the roads are spectacular because they twist along the cliffs.

Doing it yourself: with a car, you can make the canyon a two-day trip and stay in Moustiers or around the lake, which allows sunset and sunrise at the viewpoints and a walk on the famous Sentier Blanc-Martel trail at the bottom of the gorge (a serious, full-day hike requiring fitness and good shoes). For most visitors staying in Nice, though, the guided day trip is the practical way to see one of Europe's great landscapes without the stress of mountain driving.