Jerk is Jamaica’s great culinary gift to the world, and Scotchies is one of the places where it is done with pride. The method is simple and ancient: meat, usually pork or chicken, is rubbed with a paste of scotch bonnet pepper, allspice (which Jamaicans call pimento), thyme, scallions and other seasonings, then slow-cooked over smouldering pimento wood in a pit or drum. The wood adds a perfume that cannot be replicated on a gas grill, and the result is meat that is dark, charred at the edges, juicy inside and spicy enough to make you reach for your drink. The tradition is closely linked to the Maroons, escaped slaves who preserved and refined these techniques in the hills of Jamaica. At Scotchies the cooking happens in the open, under zinc roofs, with the smoke drifting through thatched dining areas. You order by weight, and the chopped meat arrives in foil with sides such as festival, a sweet fried dumpling, bammy, a flat cassava bread, roasted breadfruit, sweet potato and yam. The tour we link is a lunch from Ocho Rios, which makes the visit simple and takes care of transport.
How it works
The lunch tour collects guests from Ocho Rios and drives to the jerk centre, where you have time to eat. Food and drinks may or may not be included, depending on the version, so check what is covered. Visits generally last around an hour or two, with transport in both directions. If you want to try more than one type of jerk, such as pork and chicken, share dishes with the table.
What to expect
The setting is casual, the smoke is part of the atmosphere and the food is served without frills. The jerk is spicy, but the sides and a cold Red Stripe or a ginger beer calm the heat. You can ask for a milder preparation, but the real pleasure is the full flavour. Bring cash for extra items and tips. Wash your hands before eating, and expect to use them, as much of the meal is eaten with fingers.
Making the most of it
Go hungry. Pair the lunch with a morning at Dunn’s River Falls or a visit to Nine Mile on the way back, since the jerk is the perfect refuel after an active morning. For something more structured, consider the food tour on this site, which adds more Jamaican dishes to the mix. Vegetarians should ask about the sides, as the jerk itself is meat, and the breadfruit, yam and plantain are good choices.
Practical notes
The centres are busy at lunchtime and at weekends, so be patient when ordering. Portions are generous, so share if you are not very hungry, and ask for the meat chopped, which is the usual way it is served. Pork is richer and fattier, while chicken is leaner, and many people order a mix. Try a side of roasted breadfruit if you can, because it is smoky and satisfying. If you want a drink with a kick, ask about a local rum punch, and remember that spice often builds as you eat.
Who it suits
Anyone who loves food, from adventurous eaters to families who want a simple, tasty meal. The experience is informal and often noisy, with music in the background, which is part of its charm.
What to expect
The experience
A transport-and-lunch outing to a jerk centre where pork and chicken are smoked over pimento wood.
Best time
Lunchtime, when the pits are busiest and the meat is freshest.
How long
Around two hours including the drive.
Tips
Bring cash for extras, expect to eat with your hands and ask for sides if you do not eat meat.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Food lovers who want to taste authentic Jamaican jerk.
- Families
- Mild options and sweet sides such as festival make it good for children.
- Couples
- A casual, flavourful lunch with a cold drink.
- Pair with
- Nine Mile, Dunn’s River Falls or a food tour.
- Time needed
- A couple of hours.
Good questions
What is jerk?+
It is a method of seasoning and slow-cooking meat over pimento wood, using scotch bonnet pepper, allspice, thyme and other seasonings.
Is jerk very spicy?+
It can be. Ask for a milder preparation, and cool the heat with sides and a cold drink.
What are festival and bammy?+
Festival is a sweet fried dumpling, and bammy is a flat bread made from cassava.
Is there vegetarian food?+
The jerk is meat, but sides such as breadfruit, yam and plantain are vegetarian.
Can I pay by card?+
Cash is the safer choice, so carry some Jamaican or US dollars.
