When the National Park Service created Cape Hatteras National Seashore, it was the first national seashore in the United States, and it protects roughly seventy miles of barrier island beach that would otherwise be lined with houses. The seashore runs along three islands, Bodie, Hatteras and Ocracoke, and its holdings include some of the quietest ocean beaches on the East Coast, the big striped lighthouse at Buxton, the Bodie Island Lighthouse, Oregon Inlet, the Hatteras Island villages and the Ocracoke Pony Pen. A single road, NC 12, threads the length of the seashore, and the drive is a sightseeing attraction in itself, with dunes, marsh and sea on either side. A self-guided audio driving tour, rated around 4.5 stars, turns that drive into a narrated history of shipwrecks, storms and lifesaving.
What to do
The seashore is a place to unplug. Swimmers use the lifeguarded beaches at places such as Coquina Beach and Frisco in season, surfers head for the breaks near the Hatteras lighthouse, and fishermen line the shore for bluefish, drum and flounder through the year. Kiteboarders and windsurfers fill Pamlico Sound near Avon and Rodanthe on windy days.
Walkers can explore short trails and boardwalks, and birdwatchers will find big migrations in spring and autumn. Remember that parts of the seashore close seasonally to protect nesting birds and sea turtles, so check the National Park Service website for current beach access and rules before you plan a drive on the sand.
The Graveyard of the Atlantic
The offshore shoals, the collision of the Gulf Stream and the Labrador Current, and fierce storms have wrecked hundreds of ships along this coast over four centuries, and that history gives the seashore its character. The lighthouses were built to warn sailors, the lifesaving stations to rescue them, and the villages grew around both.
A narrated audio tour is a good way to hear those stories as you drive, because you can pause at pull-offs and hear about the wrecks and the people who saved crews. It is a self-guided product, so there is no group and no schedule, which suits travellers who like to move at their own pace.
Planning
Allow a full day to drive the seashore from Oregon Inlet to Hatteras village, and a second day if you add Ocracoke. NC 12 can flood or be covered with sand after storms, so check road conditions before you set out, especially in hurricane season. Services are sparse between villages, so fill your fuel tank and carry water.
Beach driving requires a permit and a suitable vehicle, and the rules change, so read the park’s guidance. Pair the seashore with the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, Bodie Island Lighthouse and Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge, all of which sit on or beside the same road.
Beach etiquette
Respect posted closures, keep dogs on a leash where they are allowed, and carry out all your rubbish. Stay off the dunes, whose grasses hold the island together, and cross at marked paths. In summer, sea turtle nests are protected with stakes and tape, so keep your distance and turn off lights at night near the beach. The seashore’s visitor centers at Bodie Island, Hatteras and Ocracoke offer maps, programmes and up-to-date information on road, ferry and beach conditions.
What to expect
The experience
A protected barrier-island seashore explored by car along NC 12, with beaches, lighthouses and villages; the audio tour narrates the drive.
Best time
Late spring and autumn for mild weather and fewer people; summer for swimming.
How long
Half a day to a full day, depending on how far south you go.
Tips
Fill your tank and carry water, check NC 12 road conditions, and read the beach driving and seasonal closure rules.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Beach lovers, drivers and anyone who wants quiet ocean beaches.
- Families
- Wide beaches and lifeguarded stretches in summer suit families.
- Couples
- A scenic, uncrowded drive with long sunset beaches.
- Pair with
- Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, Bodie Island Lighthouse and Pea Island.
- Time needed
- A half day to a full day.
Good questions
Is the seashore free?+
Entry to the seashore is generally free, although some activities such as lighthouse climbs and beach driving have separate fees or permits.
How long is the seashore?+
It protects roughly seventy miles of barrier island across Bodie, Hatteras and Ocracoke islands.
What is the audio tour?+
It is a self-guided driving tour that narrates the history and scenery of the seashore as you travel along the road.
Can I drive on the beach?+
Beach driving needs a permit and a suitable vehicle, and areas close seasonally. Check the National Park Service rules first.
Why is it called the Graveyard of the Atlantic?+
Shifting shoals, strong currents and storms wrecked hundreds of ships along this coast over the centuries.