Naoussa Harbour and Village

Naoussa, on the north coast of Paros, is the island's glamorous seaside village, but it began as a working fishing port and still looks like one. The small harbour is the heart of the place. Colourful caiques bob in the water, fishermen mend nets on the quay, and octopus hangs drying on lines outside waterfront tavernas. At the harbour mouth stands a ruined Venetian fortress of the fifteenth century, a low stone tower on a breakwater that was once part of the defence of the bay and is now a favourite spot for photographs, especially at sunrise and sunset. Behind the harbour the lanes of Naoussa twist between whitewashed cubic houses, bright bougainvillea, small chapels and stone arches. By day the village is quiet. Late in the morning shops open, cafes fill and visitors drift toward the waterfront. By night it comes alive: restaurants set tables along the lanes, bars open in old houses, and boutiques sell linen, jewellery and ceramics from local makers. The scene is cosmopolitan in high season, with visitors from across Europe, but the village keeps its character because the old centre is largely pedestrian and the buildings are low, so it feels more like a small town than a resort.

Naoussa is also the natural base for the northern beaches. Within a few minutes by bus, taxi or boat you can reach Kolymbithres, Monastiri and Santa Maria, and sunset cruises leave from the harbour into the wide bay. Local festivals fill the village with music and dancing in summer, so ask locally if your visit overlaps a festival date.

For food, look for places that serve the day's catch and local specialties. Grilled octopus, sea urchin salad when in season, fried zucchini, local cheese pies and the island's wines and raki are all good choices. Prices rise in high season, so book dinner tables ahead in July and August, especially for waterfront seats around sunset. If you prefer quiet, eat early or choose a spot in a back lane rather than on the harbour itself.

Plan to arrive by late afternoon, wander the lanes while the shops open, watch the light change on the fortress and then eat. Cars are restricted in the centre, and parking at the edge of the village fills early, so use a bus or taxi if you can.

Wear flat shoes, because the paving is uneven and polished by use. The village suits couples, friends and families with older children, and photographers will find endless subjects. Give yourself two to three hours for a relaxed walk and a drink, longer if dinner is part of the plan.