Most visitors know Perito Moreno, but Lago Argentino is fed by several large glaciers, and the boat day to Upsala and Spegazzini takes you to the wilder side of the park. The big catamaran leaves from the Puerto Bandera dock, about fifty kilometres from El Calafate, and sails up the Brazo Norte, passing drifting icebergs in shades of white, turquoise and a deep electric blue. Spegazzini is among the tallest glacier faces in the area, a vertical cliff of ice rising far above the water, and the boat approaches it at a safe distance for photographs. Upsala, one of the largest glaciers in the region, is viewed from afar because the icebergs break up and fill the channel, which makes close access difficult. The Viator listing, rated 4.5 from forty reviews, describes the tour as about eight hours including hotel pickup and shared transfer, with navigation on Lago Argentino, food and drinks included and a valid passport required. The national park fee is payable separately in pesos. The product is non-refundable, so check dates carefully before you book. The ship carries a large number of passengers and has a heated interior, but the best photographs come from the open deck.
The route is the draw. After leaving the dock, the boat threads past iceberg fields where blocks of ice, some the size of a house, float and rotate slowly. The boat pauses for photographs, and the blue of the ice is explained by how dense, compressed ice absorbs red light. Spegazzini gives the biggest sense of scale, with a wall of ice so tall that people on the deck look tiny from the shore. The whole trip feels remote compared with the busy catwalks at Perito Moreno.
Conditions vary a lot. Wind funnels along the arms, the deck is cold even in spring, and a sudden squall can change the mood. Pack warm layers, waterproof outerwear, gloves, a hat and sunglasses, and bring seasickness remedies if you are prone to it, though the lake is normally calm. Arrive early at the dock for a good seat near a window or a railing. Bring your passport as required and carry pesos for the park fee. Boat schedules can change due to weather, ice or demand, so keep your day flexible and check your voucher the day before.
Decide if this is the right cruise. If you want one glacier experience and you have only a single day, choose Perito Moreno from the catwalks and the water. If you have two days, or have already seen Perito Moreno and want to experience the lake's remote northern faces, this is the better second outing. Some operators offer upgrades with gourmet lunches, and some offer longer overnight cruises on small vessels for travellers who want a deeper expedition. For most people, the standard day sailing delivers the best balance of price, scenery and effort in El Calafate, and November is a quiet, scenic month to go.
What to expect
The experience
A catamaran sailing from Puerto Bandera up the northern arm of Lago Argentino, with iceberg viewing and approaches to the Spegazzini and Upsala glaciers.
Best time
Morning departures tend to have calmer water, and spring brings long daylight and clear mountain views.
How long
About eight hours including pickup and return transfer, with several hours on the boat.
Tips
Bring your passport, a windproof jacket and pesos for the park fee, and note the booking is non-refundable.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Travellers with a second glacier day who want a wilder, less crowded experience than Perito Moreno.
- Families
- Fine for children who enjoy boats; keep them close on deck and bring snacks for the long day.
- Couples
- A scenic, unhurried day among icebergs, with food and drinks on board.
- Pair with
- A day at the Perito Moreno catwalks or an evening at an estancia.
- Time needed
- One day.
Good questions
Which glaciers does the cruise visit?+
It focuses on the Spegazzini and Upsala glaciers. Upsala is generally seen from a distance because of icebergs in the channel.
Is lunch included?+
The listing states that food and drinks are included. Check the booking page for details on dietary needs.
Do I need a passport?+
Yes, a valid passport is required. Bring it with you on the day of the cruise.
Is it refundable?+
The product is listed as non-refundable and cannot be changed, so confirm dates before booking.
How is the weather in November?+
Spring is a good time with long days, but wind and cold on the deck are common. Dress in layers and bring waterproof outerwear.