Montefalco Wine Tour

Montefalco is a small, circular hill town about 45 minutes south of Perugia, nicknamed the balcony of Umbria for the view across the valley toward Assisi and Spello. It is also the home of Sagrantino, one of Italy's most distinctive red grapes. Grown almost nowhere else, Sagrantino makes dark, tannic, powerful wines that reached DOCG status in 1992, and the town's cellars have turned the grape from a local curiosity into a regional flagship. A visit combines the pleasures of a quiet hill town with cellar doors where producers show the barrels and pour the wines. A historic cellar and vineyard tour with a tasting is the easiest way to learn. Typically you will walk through the vineyards, see the cellar and then sit down with several wines, including Montefalco Rosso, a blend with Sangiovese, and the full-bodied Sagrantino. Some tastings include local food such as cured meats, pecorino and olive oil, making a light lunch. The tannins are intense, so food helps, and guides will explain how to pair and how long to age.

Beyond wine, the town has its own charm. The former church of San Francesco is now a museum with a fresco cycle on the life of St Francis painted by Benozzo Gozzoli around 1450, a colorful, human version of the story that rivals those of the more famous sites. The ring of walls, the main street with its small shops and the central Piazza del Comune with its lively bars make for an easy stroll.

The surrounding countryside is dotted with wineries, olive groves and small farms that are best explored with a tour or driver, since public transport is limited and tastings involve alcohol. Cycling and Vespa tours also run, and a number of estates offer farm lunches. The nearby town of Bevagna, a few kilometers away, is another medieval gem with a perfectly preserved square, and Trevi is known for its olive oil.

Remember to nominate a driver or book a transfer. Buy a bottle or two to take home, and ask about shipping. If you like bold reds and sleepy towns, Montefalco is one of the best excursions from Perugia.

If you want to taste more widely, ask for a flight that includes Montefalco Bianco, a blend led by Grechetto, and the sweet passito version of Sagrantino, traditionally made for holidays and served with dry biscuits. Producers range from family cellars to modern estates with architect-designed tasting rooms. Whichever you choose, spit buckets are normal for serious tasters, and designated drivers are valued.

Bring a cooler bag if you are buying bottles in summer, because Umbrian car trunks get hot. Weekdays are quieter than weekends in the cellars, and smaller producers often prefer an advance booking so that someone is free to pour and explain. Ask what food comes with the tasting, since a plate of cured meats and pecorino softens the tannins and turns a tasting into a light lunch.