Orvieto Underground

The most surprising thing about Orvieto is what lies beneath it. The soft volcanic tuff on which the town stands has been dug into since Etruscan times, and over two or three millennia residents have carved out a honeycomb of more than a thousand caves, passages, wells and cisterns. Archaeologists believe the Etruscans cut the first wells and quarries, and later generations reused the voids for storing wine, pressing olives, raising pigeons for food and sheltering from sieges. Today a guided tour takes a small group down into a selection of these spaces, and it is one of the most distinctive experiences in Umbria. Guides explain how the caves worked. You will see olive presses with their stone wheels, shafts through which pigeons were bred in niches carved into the rock, wells and cisterns that kept the town supplied with water, and passages that connect houses to the cliff. The temperature below stays steady and cool, which makes the visit a relief on hot days. Some tours end with an aperitivo of local wine and snacks in a cave, a pleasant combination of history and taste.

Orvieto's geology explains the city's sheer drama. The plateau is a block of volcanic rock rising steeply above the surrounding plain, and the cliffs form natural fortifications. The same tuff provided building stone for the cathedral and palaces, so quarrying and building went hand in hand, leaving the hollows that make up Orvieto Underground.

Some of the caves are open to groups on guided routes, while many others remain in private cellars. That is why a guide is essential: the routes are controlled, the passages can be narrow and the explanation turns a series of dim chambers into a narrative.

Tours generally last around an hour for the caves alone and up to two with an aperitivo. The temperature is cool, around 15 degrees Celsius year-round, so bring a light layer. Some passages involve steps and low ceilings, so those with mobility limits should ask in advance. Children usually find it thrilling, which makes it one of the best family activities in the area.

Pair the caves with the cathedral, St Patrick's Well and a walk to the cliff edge for the view. St Patrick's Well, commissioned by Pope Clement VII after the 1527 sack of Rome, has two spiral staircases that never meet, allowing mules to go down and up without crossing. Its design is a marvel of Renaissance engineering and well worth the descent of roughly 250 steps.

Finish with a glass of Orvieto Classico at a wine bar and a plate of local salumi. Together these sights give a vivid, three-dimensional sense of how this cliff-top town has survived and thrived for so long.

For the best experience, book the first tour of the day, when the groups are smaller and the guide has time to answer questions. Photography is usually allowed, though flash may be restricted, and phone flashlights are handy in dim corners. Check the language of the tour in advance, since English departures are scheduled at fixed times. If you have more time, ask the operator about a longer route that includes the Pozzo della Cava, a medieval well with a small museum and a ceramics workshop nearby.