The Cathedral of San Martino is Lucca’s most important church and one of the great Romanesque buildings of Tuscany. Consecrated in 1070 and rebuilt many times, it is famous first for its façade, a cascade of small columns and arcades squeezed asymmetrically against the bell tower, every column carved differently. Inside, a small octagonal marble temple by the local sculptor Matteo Civitali shelters the Volto Santo, a very old wooden crucifix that legend says was carved by Nicodemus and that the city honours each September with the candlelit Luminara procession. In the sacristy lies the tomb of Ilaria del Carretto, the young wife of Paolo Guinigi, who died in 1405 at the age of 27; Jacopo della Quercia’s marble effigy of her, with a little dog at her feet, is one of the most moving sculptures of the early Renaissance. The cathedral also holds a Last Supper by Tintoretto.
How it works: the cathedral is part of a Museum and Archaeological Complex that also includes the Cathedral Museum, the bell tower and the Church of San Giovanni e Santa Reparata, where excavations reveal the layers of Roman and early Christian Lucca beneath the floor. A paid ticket covers the sacristy with the Ilaria tomb and the other parts of the complex, and the complex accepts the Lucca VisitCard. Opening hours change through the year, so check the official site before you go, and remember that the cathedral is a working church, so visits pause during services.
The bell tower: opened to the public in 2016 after restoration, the twelfth to thirteenth-century campanile is about 60 metres high, and 217 steps lead to a 360-degree view over the city and the plain. It is a quieter alternative to the Guinigi Tower and looks straight down onto Piazza San Martino.
Making the most of it: start outside, studying the façade and the carved labyrinth on the portico pillar, then go in to see the Volto Santo and the Ilaria tomb. If time allows, add San Giovanni for the archaeology underneath. Ramps make the cathedral and San Giovanni accessible to wheelchair users.
What to expect
The experience
A visit to Lucca’s working cathedral and its museum complex, including the sacristy with the Ilaria del Carretto tomb, the Cathedral Museum, San Giovanni’s excavations and an optional bell tower climb.
Best time
A weekday morning, avoiding service times, when the light picks out the carving on the façade.
How long
About an hour for the cathedral and sacristy, two hours with the museum, San Giovanni and the bell tower.
Tips
Check the season’s hours on the official site, dress modestly, and use the Lucca VisitCard if you are also visiting the Guinigi Tower and the Puccini Museum.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Lovers of Romanesque architecture and Renaissance sculpture, and anyone curious about Lucca’s deep religious traditions.
- Families
- Older children enjoy the bell tower climb and the carved labyrinth on the porch; younger ones may find the interior slow.
- Couples
- The tender effigy of Ilaria del Carretto, with her dog at her feet, is a quietly romantic sight.
- Pair with
- A walk on the walls nearby, then the Puccini Museum a few minutes away.
- Time needed
- One to two hours, depending on how much of the museum complex you see.
Good questions
What is the Volto Santo in Lucca Cathedral?+
It is a very old wooden crucifix that tradition attributes to Nicodemus. It is honoured every year with the Luminara, a candlelit procession through the city.
Who was Ilaria del Carretto?+
She was the wife of Paolo Guinigi, lord of Lucca, and died in 1405 at the age of 27. Her marble tomb by Jacopo della Quercia is in the cathedral.
Can you climb the bell tower of Lucca Cathedral?+
Yes, the bell tower has been open to visitors since 2016. There are 217 steps to the top and a 360-degree view.
Is there an entry fee for San Martino?+
A paid ticket is needed for the sacristy and the museum complex, which also accepts the Lucca VisitCard. Hours and prices vary by season, so check the official site.
Is Lucca Cathedral wheelchair accessible?+
Ramps make the cathedral and the Church of San Giovanni accessible. Other parts of the complex, including the bell tower, are not.